West Indian politeness--Negro morals and felicity--Island of St. Vincent--Grenada--The harbour--Disappearance of the whites--An island of black freeholders--Tobago--Dramatic art--A promising incident 41 CHAPTER VI. Charles Kingsley at Trinidad--'Lay of the Last Buccaneer'--A French _forban_--Adventure at Aves--Mass on board a pirate ship--Port of Spain--A house in the tropics--A political meeting--Government House--The Botanical Gardens--Kingsley's rooms--Sugar estates and coolies 51 CHAPTER VII. A coolie village--Negro freeholds--Waterworks--Snakes--Slavery-- Evidence of Lord Rodney--Future of the negroes--Necessity of English rule--The Blue Basin--Black boy and crayfish 66 CHAPTER VIII. Home Rule in Trinidad--Political aspirations--Nature of the problem--Crown administration--Colonial governors--A Russian apologue--Dinner at Government House--'The Three Fishers'--Charles Warner--Alternative futures of the colony 75 CHAPTER IX. Barbadoes again--Social condition of the island--Political constitution--Effects of the sugar bounties--Dangers of general bankruptcy--The Hall of Assembly--Sir Charles Pearson--Society in Bridgetown--A morning drive--Church of St. John's--Sir Graham Briggs--An old planter's palace--The Chief Justice of Barbadoes 88 CHAPTER X. Leeward and Windward Islands--The Caribs of Dominica--Visit of Père Labat--St. Lucia--The Pitons--The harbour at Castries--Intended coaling station--Visit to the administrator--The old fort and barracks--Conversation with an American--Constitution of Dominica--Land at Roseau 113 CHAPTER XI. Curiosities in Dominica--Nights in the tropics--English and Catholic churches--The market place at Roseau--Fishing extraordinary--A storm--Dominican boatmen--Morning walks--Effects of the Leeward Islands Confederation--An estate cultivated as it ought to be--A mountain ride--Leave the island--Reflections 132 CHAPTER XII. The Darien canal--Jamaican mail packet--Captain W.--Retrospect of Jamaican history--Waterspout at sea--Hayti--Jacmel--A walk through the town--A Jamaican planter--First sight of the Blue Mountains--Port Royal--Kingston--The Colonial Secretary--Gordon riots--Changes in the Jamaican constitution 155 CHAPTER XIII. The English mails--Irish agitation--Two kinds of colonies--Indian administration--How far applicable in the West Indies--Land at Kingston--Government House--Dinner party--Interesting officer--Majuba Hill--Mountain station--Kingston curiosities--Tobacco--Valley in the Blue Mountains 180 CHAPTER XIV.