The English in the West Indies; Or, The Bow of UlyssesFroude, James Anthony
History
The English in the West Indies; Or, The Bow of Ulysses
Froude, James Anthony
Great Britain -- Colonies -- Administration; West Indies -- Description and travel; West Indies, British -- Description and travel
I did not land, for the time was short, and as a beautiful picture the
island was best seen from the deck. The characteristics of the people
are the same in all the Antilles, and could be studied elsewhere. The
bustle and confusion in the ship, the crowd of boats round the ladder,
the clamour of negro men's tongues, and the blaze of colours from the
negro women's dresses, made up together a scene sufficiently
entertaining for the hour which we remained. In the middle of it the
Governor, Mr. S----, came on board with another official. They were
going on in the steamer to Tobago, which formed part of his dominions.
Leaving St. Vincent, we were all the forenoon passing the Grenadines, a
string of small islands fitting into their proper place in the Antilles
semicircle, but as if Nature had forgotten to put them together or else
had broken some large island to pieces and scattered them along the
line. Some were large enough to have once carried sugar plantations, and
are now made over wholly to the blacks; others were fishing stations,
droves of whales during certain months frequenting these waters; others
were mere rocks, amidst which the white-sailed American coasting
schooners were beating up against the north-east trade. There was a
stiff breeze, and the sea was white with short curling waves, but we
were running before it and the wind kept the deck fresh. At Grenada, the
next island, we were to go on shore.
Grenada was, like St. Vincent, the home for centuries of man-eating
Caribs, French for a century and a half, and finally, after many
desperate struggles for it, was ceded to England at the peace of
Versailles. It is larger than St. Vincent, though in its main features
it has the same character. There are lakes in the hills, and a volcanic
crater not wholly quiescent; but the especial value of Grenada, which
made us fight so hardly to win it, is the deep and landlocked harbour,
the finest in all the Antilles.
Père Labat, to whose countrymen it belonged at the time of his own
visit there, says that 'if Barbadoes had such a harbour as Grenada it
would be an island without a rival in the world. If Grenada belonged to
the English, who knew how to turn to profit natural advantages, it would
be a rich and powerful colony. In itself it was all that man could
desire. To live there was to live in paradise.' Labat found the island
occupied by countrymen of his own, '_paisans aisez_', he calls them,
growing their tobacco, their indigo and scarlet rocou, their pigs and
their poultry, and contented to be without sugar, without slaves, and
without trade. The change of hands from which he expected so much had
actually come about. Grenada did belong to the English, and had belonged
to us ever since Rodney's peace. I was anxious to see how far Labat's
prophecy had been fulfilled.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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