The Englishwoman in Russia : $b impressions of the society and manners of the Russians at homeA lady
History
The Englishwoman in Russia : $b impressions of the society and manners of the Russians at home
A lady
Russia -- Social life and customs -- 1533-1917
From Archangel to St. Petersburg we passed hundreds of versts of this
description of country. In these districts utter desolation reigns,
scarcely a living thing is seen; even the birds have deserted them, and
have flown to the neighbourhood of the towns, to find there the food
their native woods can no longer afford them. A solitary wolf or fox may
occasionally be descried, either skulking among the bushes or sitting
watchfully by the wayside, in faint hopes, perhaps, of some weary horse
being left on the road to die and to become the victim of the hungry
droves now lying perdus in the forest depths, and only scared from the
traveller’s path by the tinkling of the bell attached to the sledge. No
other sound breaks the weary silence but the yell of the yemstchick
inciting his team to greater speed, or his wild voice chanting forth
the songs of the people, which echo far away through those melancholy
forests, and only serve to awaken the heart to a still greater sense of
the utter desolation around. Yet Nature is always grand, and perhaps
never more so than in the wilderness!
No inhabitants dwell in these tracts, with the exception of the few poor
peasants whose huts surround the government post-stations; it is a rare
occurrence indeed to meet a human being, and for hours one travels on,
and the only sign of being in a civilized country is the wooden cross,
gray with age, placed here and there by the wayside. Several times on
the journey we met gangs of wretched criminals, heavily chained, and
escorted by soldiers, whose duty it is to conduct them from station to
station. Along the roads in Russia the traveller may remark small brick
houses, placed at intervals of about twenty or twenty-five versts; these
are the places at which these gangs rest on their way to Siberia. One of
these miserable escorts was standing still as we were changing horses,
which gave us the opportunity of examining their countenances. Features
more debased or expressions more frightful it is impossible to conceive.
Crime and every evil thought seemed to have deprived them almost of even
the traces of human beings; I shuddered as I gazed on them. Among the
convicts was a woman with a face, if possible, more horrible than that of
the men; she had a child with her, a poor little thing of scarcely five
years old, that was suffering dreadfully from the hooping-cough; instead
of treating it with kindness and compassion, its wicked mother was
treating it unmercifully, until even the men, her companions in crime,
brutalized though they were, called out shame on her, and begged her to
desist. I never felt so convinced that punishment was justly deserved as
in the case of this wretched woman.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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