The Englishwoman in Russia : $b impressions of the society and manners of the Russians at homeA lady
History
The Englishwoman in Russia : $b impressions of the society and manners of the Russians at home
A lady
Russia -- Social life and customs -- 1533-1917
Next door to the hairdresser lives a milliner, whose gay caps and bonnets
are duly delineated on her board. Yonder is a toy-shop, with a fine
painting containing the most artistic grouping of rocking-horses with
happy little boys on them for ever smiling, and Punch reclining wearily
on a drum, mixed up with swords and guns that will never kill Turks,
and helmets, shakoes, Cossack-caps, &c., destined to raise ambitious
hopes in many a childish breast. But we have reached the Anitchkin
bridge, which crosses the Fontanka. These four equestrian statues in
bronze have a fine effect; the human figures endeavouring to restrain
the fiery steeds are full of life and animation. There are some fine
buildings near; that large handsome mansion on the right hand belongs
to Prince Wasiliwitch; the long range that you see yonder to the left
is the Catherine Institution; it contains some hundreds of young
ladies belonging to noble families, and, like most establishments of
education here, is a government one. It is of no use going further than
the Amitchkin bridge, because there is absolutely nothing to see; the
houses beyond it degenerate greatly, so we will return. That large white
mansion is the palace of the Archduchess Olga, which she inhabits when
she visits the capital. Leaving the Gostinoi Dwor on the left, we look
down a street, facing which we see at a distance the Michael Palace,
a handsome edifice. Soon afterwards we reach the Kazane church; it is
built on the model of St. Peter’s in Rome, only on a diminutive scale.
We will finish our morning’s ramble by entering it for a few minutes and
examining the interior. It is large, and the space, unobstructed by pews,
appears even greater than it is; the fine marble pillars supporting the
roof are surmounted by gilt capitals; the pavement is tesselated; the
walls are covered with pictures, before which silver lamps are suspended,
and stands are placed, in which are stuck innumerable thin wax tapers,
reminding us of the joss-sticks of the Chinese. That portrait, before
which the ignorant lower class are performing their devotions, and
bowing so low that their foreheads touch the ground, is the likeness of
the Emperor’s daughter Alexandrine, who died some years ago. Alas! and
are the days of heathen apotheosis not yet passed away? Must we, in
the nineteenth century of the Christian era, see anything so shocking
as this? What difference is there between the adoration of Romulus by
the ancient Romans and this idolatry? Before that shrine opposite are
kneeling two nuns; one of them is only a novice, as shown by her black
velvet cone-shaped head-dress and gauze veil hanging down behind; the
other has a straight head-dress covered with black cloth; they are both
habited in gowns of black serge, and carry rosaries. A face, however
beautiful, could never look so in this unbecoming costume. Near them is
a poor woman decently clad, whose repeated prostrations, and the tears
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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