Moscow—Poushkin’s verses—The Moscowites—Dislike of foreigners—Antipathy to the St. Petersburg people—Ancient devotees—Places of amusement—General remarks—The Kremlin—The churches—General view of the city—Napoleon—The miraculous image—Ivan and his recompence for genius—The Gostinoi Dwor—The shopkeepers’ brides—A wedding coach—The Tartar—The Persian—The Metropolitan of Moscow—The Jews—The shopkeepers—Smoking—The Tiramà, or ancient palace—The new palace—The Treasury—The diadems—The Tartars of the present day—The church of Warsaw—The last fight for freedom—Various curiosities—Spoils of the _grande armée_—The officer’s widow—French refugees: their gratitude—The model of the Kremlin 270 CHAPTER XIX. English people in Russia—Sudden change of sentiment—Intolerant feelings of the Russians towards them—Opinions of the people—Ideas of the Russians on the English ministry—Their hope of aid from the Americans—The lower classes—Losses of the Russians—Disagreeable remarks—Their manner of speaking of the French—Political ideas—The Americans in St. Petersburg—Invented news—Odd ideas of a war-ship—The English in fault—Mr. Pim’s designs—Russian disgust at the new warlike inventions—Dread of the British—The serfs—The troops in the capital—Vanity of the Russians—Their disappointment about Turkey—False ideas—Evil effects of the conscription and slavery—The recruits—Deserters—Dissatisfaction—The Czar’s ambition—Aspect of St. Petersburg—Wretched recruits—Embarrassments of the Russians—A bivouac—The dying officer—March of the army—The future of Russia—A review—Anecdote of the Emperor 291 CHAPTER XX. Foreigners in Russia—The Poles—The oath of allegiance—Disgraceful treatment—Want of cordiality—Polish exiles—Greek and Roman churches—Difference of creed—Saints—Christmas custom—Warsaw—Polish cottages—Peasants: their treatment—Germans in Russia: their customs; their mode of life—New-Year’s eve—Pleasing custom—Character of the Germans—Variety of foreigners—The French—The Turkish renegade—Mixed society—Conclusion 327 GENERAL REMARKS 339 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. A REVIEW—CHARGE OF 10,000 CAVALRY _Frontispiece._ PETER THE GREAT’S STATUE, AND THE OFFICE OF THE SENATE _Title-page._ THE ALEXANDER COLUMN AND WAR OFFICE _To face page_ 52 COSSACKS OF THE DON AND BLACK SEA ” 59 THE CARNIVAL AT ST. PETERSBURG—RUSSIAN MOUNTAINS ” 215 AN IMPERIAL BALL ” 231 RECEPTION OF THE IMPERIAL FAMILY AT A REVIEW ” 314 THE ENGLISHWOMAN IN RUSSIA. CHAPTER I.