After passing in review this splendid vision, we shot rapidly round the
Rock of Pharos, and, in a few minutes, found ourselves in the harbour of
Eunostus. The sun had risen, but the light on the Great Tower of the Rock
was still burning; and there was a languor in the first waking movements
of that voluptuous city—whose houses and temples lay shining in silence
round the harbour—that sufficiently attested the festivities of the
preceding night.
We were soon landed on the quay; and, as I walked, through a line of
palaces and shrines, up the street which leads from the sea to the Gate of
Canopus, fresh as I was from the contemplation of my own lovely Athens, I
felt a glow of admiration at the scene around me, which its novelty, even
more than its magnificence, inspired. Nor were the luxuries and delights,
which such a city promised, among the least of the considerations on which
my fancy, at that moment, dwelt. On the contrary, every thing around
seemed prophetic of future pleasure. The very forms of the architecture,
to my Epicurean imagination, appeared to call up images of living grace;
and even the dim seclusion of the temples and groves spoke only of tender
mysteries to my mind. As the whole bright scene grew animated around me, I
felt that though Egypt might not enable me to lengthen life, she could
teach the next best art,—that of multiplying its enjoyments.
The population of Alexandria, at this period, consisted of the most motley
miscellany of nations, religions, and sects, that had ever been brought
together in one city. Beside the school of the Grecian Platonist was seen
the oratory of the cabalistic Jew; while the church of the Christian
stood, undisturbed, over the crypts of the Egyptian Hierophant. Here, the
adorer of Fire, from the east, laughed at the superstition of the
worshipper of cats, from the west. Here Christianity, too, unluckily, had
learned to emulate the vagaries of Paganism; and while, on one side, her
Ophite professor was seen kneeling down gravely before his serpent, on the
other, a Nicosian was, as gravely, contending that there was no chance of
salvation out of the pale of the Greek alphabet. Still worse, the
uncharitableness of Christian schism was already distinguishing itself
with equal vigour; and I heard of nothing, on my arrival, but the rancour
and hate, with which the Greek and Latin churchmen persecuted each other,
because, forsooth, the one fasted on the seventh day of the week, and the
others fasted upon the fourth and sixth!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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