The Escorial: A Historical and Descriptive Account of the Spanish Royal Palace, Monastery and Mausoleum — John Shaqi
The Escorial: A Historical and Descriptive Account of the Spanish Royal Palace, Monastery and MausoleumCalvert, Albert Frederick
History
The Escorial: A Historical and Descriptive Account of the Spanish Royal Palace, Monastery and Mausoleum
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Escorial
In the eyes of the Spanish subjects of Philip, the Real Monasterio, or
Real Sitio (Royal Residence), constituted the ‘eighth wonder of the
world.’ Such a magnificent palace had not been seen in Spain since the
palmy days of the Moorish potentates of Granada and Cordova. In no
sense, however, could the Escorial be likened to the buildings of
Morisco genius. It was eminently Christian in its conception and plan,
and in its dedication to San Lorenzo, the martyr of the gridiron. The
style was late Renaissance, uninfluenced by the ancient Oriental spirit,
and owing its inspiration chiefly to the Doric designers, though the
Gothic influence is of France.
If the exterior of the Escorial suggests in turn a sombre fortress, a
mournful and gaunt hermitage, or a forbidding prison, it still impresses
us as a very remarkable work of architecture. One must not look for the
richly ornate, the flamboyant, and that prodigality of decoration which
characterise many of the later public buildings of Spain. Huge, marked
with the personality of the founder, menacing, and yet not without the
nobility of plainness, the great creation of Philip II. is beyond doubt
one of the world’s greatest edifices. To some observers it has brought a
vague sense of depression when viewed upon a grey day amid its bleak
surroundings; but the atmosphere of the place is far from unimpressive,
for it is pregnant with memories, and vivid with dramatic passages in
the lives of kings and their queens, courtiers, artists, friars, and the
long train of inmates who lived within the stern granite walls.
Moreover, as a museum, the Escorial is of supreme interest. It contains
a wealth of wonderful works of art, and a superb library of costly books
and old manuscripts.
The galleries, courts, and gardens of the building undoubtedly soften
the aspect of the walls and the solemn towers. Flowers adorn the
terraces: there are pleasant seats and niches, with shady walks between
high box-hedges and splashing fountains. From the Lonja (the terraces)
one looks upon varied vistas of the plain, the frowning mountains, the
quaint flower-gardens, the ponds, and the wooded slopes, where there
are English elms and beautiful chestnut-trees.
In the surrounding demesne, there are several points of interest. One of
these is the ‘King’s Chair,’ among the rocks, where Philip sat to view
the building of the monastery. We may also wander to the ‘Queen’s
Belvedere,’ or climb the boulders of Castejon.
Not content with the vast accommodation of the Escorial, Philip caused
certain small houses, or places of retreat, to be built in the vicinity.
One of these, called La Granjilla, was surrounded by exquisite gardens,
which were adorned with many fountains. The streams and tanks provided
fish for the royal table. Another lodge was the Campillo, which the king
erected in a magnificent and lonely situation among the hills. This
house was afterwards altered by Philip IV.
III
THE CHURCH
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