The Essentials of Illustration: A Practical Guide to the Reproduction of Drawings & Photographs for the Use of Scientists & OthersHill, Thomas George
Science
The Essentials of Illustration: A Practical Guide to the Reproduction of Drawings & Photographs for the Use of Scientists & Others
Hill, Thomas George
Engraving -- Printing; Illustration of books; Photomechanical processes
With regard to photographs, it has already been mentioned that authors
should send the negative or two or three prints differently toned,
in order that the operator can choose the one most likely to give the
best result.
It is sometimes difficult in a photograph of a landscape to obtain
a negative in which the particular feature it is desired to
represent--_e.g._, in photographs of vegetation--stands out with the
requisite contrast. This is due to the position of the sun at the
time of exposure, or to the use of ordinary plates. The remedy for the
first is to take the photograph when the proper light obtains; with
regard to the second, the use of colour correct plates, together with
a colour screen in front of the lens, will obviate the defect. Since
for scientific purposes the correct interpretation of the various
tones of the vegetation, for example, may not be essential, variously
coloured screens may be used in order to emphasise a particular
feature. For instance, it will be noticed how well the bushes in Plate
7 stand out. This effect was obtained by the use of a panchromatic
plate in conjunction with a red colour screen.
[Illustration: PLATE 7.--Half Tone reproduction of a photograph taken
by Dr. Mees through a red screen.]
With regard to drawings in wash, charcoal or pencil, in which
there are half-tones; these are better drawn on an enlarged scale,
especially if the author is not a skilled draughtsman, for improper
gradations in shading and other imperfections will not appear so
noticeable in the reduced reproduction. Originals should all be
made in one colour; in the case of wash drawings, diluted Indian ink
(really Chinese ink) will give excellent results.
In making pencil drawings, a fairly stout hand-made paper with not too
much grain should be used. If the drawing is to be of some size, the
paper may be damped and pasted by its edges on to the drawing board,
it will then be stretched quite flat and will not cockle when dry.
The outline of the object may first be sketched in lightly with a
soft pencil and then the shading may be proceeded with. To do this,
broad-pointed soft pencils, 2 B, 3 B, or 4 B, should be used, and it
is better generally to work from the high lights to the shadows. To
avoid rubbing finished parts, the work should proceed from the top of
the board downwards, especially in the case of large drawings.
In order to obtain a nice gradation and a more smooth appearance--more
especially when a very coarse paper has been used--the work may be
gone over with paper stumps of appropriate size and softness, and, of
course, India rubber may be employed where it is desired to reduce the
density of the shading.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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