Authors, English -- 19th century -- Biography; Jefferies, Richard, 1848-1887
Coate is not, I believe, a large farm. It had, however, been in the
possession of the family for many generations. Once--twice--it passed
out of their hands, and was afterwards recovered. It was finally lost
about twelve years ago. To belong to an old English yeoman stock is,
perhaps, good enough ancestry for anyone, though not, certainly,
"showy." Richard Jefferies was a veritable son of the soil: not
descended from those who have nothing to show but long centuries of
servitude, but with a long line behind him of independent farmers
occupying their own land. Field and forest lore were therefore his by
right of inheritance.
As for the country round about Coate, I suppose there is no district in
the world that has been more minutely examined, explored, and described.
Jefferies knew every inch of ground, every tree, every hedge. The land
which lies in a circle of ten miles' radius, the centre of which is
Coate Farm-house, belongs to the writings of Jefferies. He lived
elsewhere, but mostly he wrote of Coate. The "Gamekeeper at Home," the
"Amateur Poacher," "Wild Life in a Southern County," "Round about a
Great Estate," "Hodge and his Masters," are all written of this small
bit of Wiltshire. Nay, in "Wood Magic," in "Amaryllis at the Fair," in
"Green Ferne Farm," and in "Bevis," we are still either at Coate Farm
itself or on the hills around.
It is a country of downs. Two of them, within sight of the farmhouse,
are covered with the grassy mounds and trenches of ancient forts or
"castles." There are plantations here and there, and coppices, but the
general aspect of the country is treeless; it is also a dry country. In
winter there are water-courses which in summer are dry; yet it is not
without brooks. Jefferies shows ("Wild Life in a Southern County," p.
29) that in ancient and prehistoric time the whole country must have
been covered with forests, of which the most important survival is what
is now called Ashbourne Chase. For one who loved solitude and wanderings
among the hills, there could be hardly any part of England more
delightful. Within a reasonable walk from Coate are Barbury Hill,
Liddington Hill, and Ashbourne Chase; there are downs extending as far
as Marlborough, over which a man may walk all day long and meet no one.
It is a country, moreover, full of ancient monuments; besides the
strongholds of Liddington and Barbury, there are everywhere tumuli,
barrows, cromlechs, and stone circles. Wayland Smith's Forge is within
a walk to the east; another walk, somewhat longer, takes you to Avebury,
to Wan's Dyke, to the Grey Wethers of Marlborough, or the ancient forest
of Savernake. There are ancient memories or whispers of old wars and
prehistoric battles about this country. At Barbury the Britons made a
final stand against the Saxons, and were defeated with great slaughter.
Wanborough, now a village, was then an important centre where four Roman
roads met, so that the chieftain or king who had his seat at Wanborough
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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