Our own ancestors, the Anglo-Saxons, wore shoes of raw cow-hide,
reaching to the ankles; and the hair turned outward. Those used by
ecclesiastics were a kind of sandal fastened with bands of leather round
the instep. The Norman half-boots had soles of wood, while the uppers
were of a more pliable material. Those worn by the Crusaders were of
chain, and later of plate armour. Very pointed toes were in fashion
during the Middle Ages, and these were carried to such a ridiculous
length that the dignitaries of the Church considered it necessary to
preach against the practice. However, this did not result in its
abolition, for we find the courtiers of the day improved upon the
prevailing mode by stuffing their shoes, and twisting them into the
shape of a ram's horn; the point of which was attached to the knee by a
chain. The common people were permitted by law to wear "the pykes on
their shoon" half-a-foot, rich citizens a foot, while nobles and princes
had theirs two-and-a-half feet long.
During the Plantagenet period it was usual to wear two shoes of
different colours, and they were often slashed on the upper surface, to
show the bright hose beneath. These were superseded by a large, padded
shoe, gored over the foot with coloured material, a fashion imported
from Italy, and exaggerated as much as the pointed shoe had been.
Buskins were high boots, made of splendid tissue, and worn by the
nobility and gentry during the Middle Ages, generally on occasions of
State. They were also largely adopted by players of tragedy. They
covered the knee, and were tied just below. The sock, or low shoe, on
the other hand, was the emblem of comedy.
One of the greatest follies ever introduced was the chopine, a sort of
stilt which increased the height of the wearer. These were first used in
Persia, but appeared in Venice about the Sixteenth Century, and their
use was encouraged by jealous husbands in the hope of keeping their
wives at home. This desire, however, was not realised, as the ladies
went out as usual, and required rather more support than hitherto.
Chopines were very ornate, and the length determined the rank of the
wearer, the noblest dames having them half-a-yard high. Shakespeare
refers to them when he makes Hamlet say:--"Your ladyship is nearer
heaven than when I saw you last by the altitude of a chopine." He also
alludes to the general use of shoes for the left and right foot, when he
speaks of a man:---
"Standing in slippers which his nimble haste
Had falsely thrust upon contrary feet."
[Illustration: GREEK AND ROMAN SHOES.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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