One of the earliest descriptions of the female dress in Britain is that
of Boadicea, the Queen of the Iceni, whom we are told wore a tunic woven
chequerwise in purple, red, and blue. Over this was a shorter garment
open on the bosom, and leaving the arms bare. Her yellow hair flowed
over her shoulders, upon which rested an ample cloak, secured by a
_fibula_ (brooch). A torque, or necklet, was also worn; a pair of bronze
breastplates as a protection from the Roman arrows, and her fingers and
arms were covered with rings and bracelets.
[Illustration: ANGLO-SAXON.]
The costume of the Anglo-Saxon ladies consisted of a _sherte_, or
_camise_, of linen next the skin, a kirtle, which resembled the modern
petticoat, and a gunna, or gown, with sleeves. Out of doors a mantle
covered the upper portion of the body, and with the coverchief, or head
rail, formed a characteristic feature of the dress of the day. Cloth,
silk, and linen were the favourite materials for clothing, and red,
blue, yellow, and green the fashionable colours. Very little black and
white were used at this period. Saxon women were renowned for their
skill with the needle, and used large quantities of gold thread and
jewels in their work. Among other instances quoted, Queen Editha
embroidered the coronation mantle of her husband, Edward the Confessor.
For some years after the Norman Conquest, women retained the costume of
the Anglo-Saxon period, with certain additions and modifications. Fine
coloured cloths and richest furs were used by both sexes, and sleeves
and trains were such a length that it was found necessary to knot them,
so that they should not trail upon the ground.
The next important change was the surcoat and tight bodice, which was
fastened in front to fit the figure.
There are evident traces that as civilisation advanced the love of dress
and the desire of the fair sex to appear beautiful in the eyes of all
beholders increased in like proportion. From ancient MSS. and other
sources, we have ample proof of this. St. Jerome calls women
"_philoscomon_," that is to say, lovers of finery, and another writer
states: "One of the most difficult points to manage with women is to
root out their curiosity for clothes and ornaments for the body." St.
Bernard admonished his sister with greater candour than politeness on
her visiting him, well arraied with riche clothinge, with perles and
precious stones: "Such pompe and pride to adorne a carion as is youre
body. Thinke ye not of the pore people, that be deyen for hunger and
colde; and that for the sixth parte of youre gay arraye, forty persons
might be clothed, refreshed, and kepte from the colde?"
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