The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs; Exeter Road
At Bridport, nine miles from the Devon border, the country already
begins to lose something of the Dorset character, and to look like the
county of junket and clotted cream. As for the town, it is difficult to
say what character it possesses, for its featureless High Street is
redeemed only from tediousness by the belfry of the Town Hall which,
with the fine westward view, including the conical height of Colmer’s
Hill and the high table-land of Eype to the left, serves to compose the
whole into something remotely resembling an effect.
Bridport is a town which would very much like to be on the sea, but is,
as a matter of fact, situated rather over a mile from it. Just where the
little river Bredy runs out and the sea comes banging furiously in, is a
forlorn concourse of houses sheltering abjectly one behind the other,
called variously Bridport Harbour and West Bay. This is the real port,
but it matters little, or nothing at all, by what name you call the
place; it remains more like a Port Desolation.
Bridport almost distinguished itself in 1651 by the fugitive Charles the
Second having been nearly captured at the ‘George Inn’ by the Harbour,
an ostler recognising his face, which, it must be conceded, was one that
once seen could scarce have been mistaken when again met with. Charles
was then trying to reach the coast after the disastrous battle of
Worcester, and it is quite certain that if Cromwell’s troopers had laid
their hands on him, there would never have been any Charles the Second
in English history.
The tragical comedy of the Stuarts throws a glamour over the Exeter Road
to its very end. The fugitive Charles, fleeing before the inquisitive
stare of the ostler, is a striking picture; and so, thirty-four years
later, is the coming of his partly acknowledged son, the Duke of
Monmouth, to upset James the Second. Bridport was seized, and one of
the ‘Monmouth men’ slew Edward Coker, gentleman, of Mappowder, on the
14th of June 1685, as the memorial tablet to that slaughtered worthy in
Bridport parish church duly recounts. For their share in the rebellion,
a round dozen of Bridport men were hanged before the eyes of their
neighbours, ‘stabbed,’ as the ancient slang phrase has it, ‘with a
Bridport dagger.’ The ghastly imagery of this saying derives from the
old-time local manufacture of rope, twine, and string, and the
cultivation of hemp in the surrounding country. Rope-and twine-walks
still remain in the town.
Leaving Bridport behind, the coach passengers by this route presently
came to its most wildly romantic part; only it is sad to reflect that
the travellers of a hundred years ago had not the slightest appreciation
of this kind of thing.
Through Bridport’s stony lanes our way we take,
And the proud steep descend to Morcombe’s lake.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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