The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs; Exeter Road
Thus the poet Gay, but he writes from the horseman’s point of view, and
if he had bruised his bones along this road in the lurching Exeter Fly,
his tone would probably have been less breezy. Travellers, indeed,
looked upon hills with loathing, and upon solitude (notwithstanding the
poets of the time) with disgust; therefore it may well be supposed that
when they came to the rugged scenery around Morecomblake, and the next
village Chideock (called locally ‘Chiddick’), they did not enjoy
themselves.
[Sidenote: _A ROYAL FUGITIVE_]
Here Stonebarrow Hill and Golden Cap, with many lesser eminences, frown
down upon the steep highway on every side, and render the scenery
nothing less than mountainous, so that strangers in these parts,
overcome with ‘terrour’ and apprehensions of worse to come, wished
themselves safe housed in the roadside inn of Morecomblake, whose
hospitable sign gave, and still gives, promise of good entertainment.
[Illustration: CHIDEOCK.]
The run down into Charmouth from this point is a breakneck one. At this
remote seaside place, in that same year, 1651, Charles the Second had
another narrow escape. Travelling in bye-ways from the disastrous field
of Worcester on horseback, with his staunch friends, Lord Wilmot and
Colonel Wyndham, arrangements had been made with the master of a trading
vessel hailing from Lyme, to put in at Charmouth with a boat in the
stillness of the night. But they had reckoned without taking into
account either the simplicity of the sailor, or the inquisitiveness of
his wife, who wormed the secret out of him, of his being engaged in this
mysterious affair with a party of strangers. All the country was ringing
with the escape of Charles from Worcester and the hue and cry after him,
and the woman rightly guessed whom these people might be. She
effectually prevented her husband from putting in an appearance by the
threat that if he made any such attempt she would inform the magistrate.
[Illustration: SIGN OF THE ‘SHIP,’ MORECOMBLAKE.]
Wearied with watching for the promised boat, the King’s companions
reluctantly had to make Charmouth the resting-place of the party for the
night. In the morning it was found that the King’s horse had cast a
shoe. When it was taken to the blacksmith, that worthy remarked the
quaint circumstance that the three others had been replaced in three
different counties, and one of these three in Worcestershire.
[Sidenote: _ALARUMS AND EXCURSIONS_]
When Charles heard that awkward discovery he was off in haste, for if a
rural blacksmith was clever enough to discover so much, it was quite
possible that he might apply his knowledge in a very embarrassing
manner.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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