The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs; Exeter Road
The little band had not hurried away a moment too soon, for the ostler
of the inn (what Sherlock Holmes’s all these Dorsetshire folks were, to
be sure!) who had already arrived independently at the conclusion that
this was King Charles, had in the meanwhile gone to the Rev. Bartholomew
Wesley, a local Roundhead divine, and told him his thoughts. Thence to
the inn, where legends tell us the landlady gave Mr. Wesley a fine
full-flavoured piece of her mind, and so eventually to the ears of a
captain of horse, this wondrous news spread. Horsemen scoured the
country; clergyman returned home to think over the loyal landlady’s
abuse; ostler, probably dismissed, had leisure to curse his
officiousness; while King and companions were off, whip and spur, to
Bridport, whence, after that alarming recognition at the Harbour, to
Broadwinsor.
[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE ‘QUEEN’S ARMS,’ CHARMOUTH.]
This historic Charmouth inn is still existing. The ‘Anchor,’ as it is
now known, was for many years the ‘Queen’s Arms,’ but although the sign
has thus been altered and half of the building partitioned off as a
separate house, the interior remains very much the same as it was then,
and the original rough, stone-flagged passages, dark panelling, and
deep-embrasured windows add a convincing touch to the story of the
King’s flight through England with a price on his head.
For the rest, Charmouth, which stands where the tiny river Char empties
itself into the sea, consists of one long street of mutually
antagonistic houses, of all shapes, sizes, and materials, and is the
very exemplar of a fishing village turned into an inchoate seaside
resort. But a sunny, sheltered, and pleasing spot.
On leaving Charmouth, the road begins to ascend again, and leaves
Dorsetshire for Devon through a tunnel cut in the hillside, called the
‘New Passage,’ coming in four miles to ‘Hunter’s Lodge Inn,’
picturesquely set amid a forest of pine trees. From this point it is two
and a half miles on to Axminster, a town which still gives a name to a
particular make of carpets, although since 1835 the local factories have
been closed and the industry transferred to Wilton, in Wiltshire. It was
in 1755 that the industry was started here.
[Sidenote: _SHUTE HILL_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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