Of course the natives crowded round us; and I noticed that with these
simple people it was much the same as with the more civilized, and
that curiosity was strongest in the gentler sex; and again, that the
young men came in more gorgeously dressed, wearing feathers, necklaces,
armlets, ear-rings, bracelets, beside jackets of various-colored silks,
and other vanities--than the older and wiser chiefs, who encumbered
themselves with no more dress than what decency actually required,
and were, moreover, treated with the greatest respect.
We strolled about from house to house without causing the slightest
alarm: in all we were welcomed, and invited to squat ourselves on
their mats with the family. The women, who were some of them very
good-looking, did not run from us as the plain-headed Malays would have
done; but laughed and chatted to us by signs in all the consciousness
of innocence and virtue.
We were fortunate in visiting these Dyaks during one of their grand
festivals (called Maugut); and in the evening, dancing, singing,
and drinking were going on in various parts of the village. In one
house there was a grand _fete_, in which the women danced with the
men. The dress of the women was simple and curious--a light jacket
open in front, and a short petticoat not coming below the knees,
fitting close, was hung round with jingling bits of brass, which kept
"making music" wherever they went. The movement was like all other
native dances--graceful, but monotonous. There were four men, two of
them bearing human sculls, and two the fresh heads of pigs; the women
bore wax-lights, or yellow rice on brass dishes. They danced in line,
moving backward and forward, and carrying the heads and dishes in both
hands; the graceful part was the manner in which they half turned the
body to the right and left, looking over their shoulders and holding
the heads in the opposite direction, as if they were in momentary
expectation of some one coming up behind to snatch the nasty relic
from them. At times the women knelt down in a group, with the men
leaning over them. After all, the music was not the only thing wanting
to make one imagine oneself at the opera. The necklaces of the women
were chiefly of teeth--bears' the most common--human the most prized.
In an interior house at one end were collected the relics of the
tribe. These consisted of several round-looking stones, two deer's
heads, and other inferior trumpery. The stones turn black if the
tribe is to be beaten in war, and red if to be victorious; any one
touching them would be sure to die; if lost, the tribe would be ruined.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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