The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian TurkestanKemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
History
The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian Turkestan
Kemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Korea -- Description and travel; Manchuria (China) -- Description and travel
The next province on the route is that of Tomsk, but the principal town,
which has the same name, lies to the north of the Trans-Siberian Railway,
and is only connected with it by a branch line from Taiga, the nearest
point to it on the main line, which is eighty-two versts or, roughly
speaking, 54 miles distant. The reason why Tomsk is not on the main line
is that the city refused to bribe the surveyors and engineers who planned
the route. This accounts for the fact that so many places, which might
quite easily have been on the line, are more or less distant from the
railway, according to their willingness to pay. It takes four hours by
rail from Taiga to Tomsk. It must be most injurious to trade to have such
difficulties as these, and such unnecessary ones. Tomsk boasts the only
university in Siberia, but this is still incomplete, and has only about
500 students. Education has been discouraged in this as in every part
of the Russian Empire, and although the money required for a university
at Irkutsk was offered, the Government refused to grant permission for
it to be established. The number of schools in 1901 was only 3909 for
the whole of Siberia, and the scholars attending them 115,407, while the
population was estimated at 5,727,090; these figures need no comment, and
my authority for them is Prince Krapotkin.
The only important town in the province on the railway line is Omsk,
where we learnt (by telegram) the death of the King. The news came like
a thunderclap, and cast a gloom over every English person on the train.
What made it doubly trying was the impossibility for weeks to come of
getting any further news. The town of Omsk is on the River Irtish. The
number of rivers in the country adds greatly to the charm of the journey,
and they have been the chief highways of the empire in the past; the
bridges over them are remarkably fine. We began to rejoice in the sight
of wild flowers once more, and children brought bunches of marigolds
and anemones to the stations for sale, but generally they were tied up
into tight little bunches without any leaves, and were quite wilted. The
main occupation of some of the passengers seemed to be that of putting
on fresh clothes, and showing them off at the stations where we had an
opportunity at least half-a-dozen times every day of getting a brief
constitutional. We learnt that passengers were allowed to visit the
luggage van, as on board ship, and get out fresh supplies of dresses, but
it did seem rather unnecessary, considering the amount of luggage taken
in the carriages.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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