The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian TurkestanKemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
History
The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian Turkestan
Kemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Korea -- Description and travel; Manchuria (China) -- Description and travel
Tashkent was conquered by the Russians in 1863, and it is only since
then that the Russian town has grown up at a short distance from the old
city; it boasts over 50,000 inhabitants, and has a considerable trade.
At this time of year the climate is delicious, but in the summer it is
said to be intensely hot, and in the rainy season the mud is so deep that
the streets become almost impassable, and the men have to go about in
what we should call wading boots. It is on this account that the natives
have such peculiar carts, with spidery wheels about eight or ten feet in
diameter. The driver sits on a saddle on the horse, with a foot resting
on each shaft. Many of the tall, lean beasts, have handsomely embroidered
horse cloths of blue and scarlet; they also wear broad scarlet or orange
neck cloths, and beaded trappings hang from their manes and over their
hind quarters; altogether they are most attractive.
We were delighted with the beautiful oriental colours of the clothing
of the natives, as they rode about on handsome Arab steeds, looking the
embodiment of pride amongst their prosaic conquerors. Turbaned servants
might be seen holding the horses outside houses while their masters were
within, or the horses might be attached to rings in beams fastened in the
roadway outside shops and offices for the purpose. Ladies, fashionably
dressed, were driving about in troïkas, with three horses harnessed
abreast. The centre horse has to trot, and the side ones canter with
their heads turned away, so that they look all the time as if they were
trying to pull away from the horse in the middle. It my opinion it has a
most unnatural and unpleasant appearance to have one horse trotting while
the others canter, and I cannot understand how they manage to drive so
swiftly under such adverse circumstances. The Siberian horses are capable
of doing twenty versts (about thirteen miles) an hour, says Capus.
Travellers going any distance by carriage continue day and night without
stopping longer than for meals and to change horses, but it must require
an iron constitution to do this. Nearly every one at Tashkent seemed to
ride or drive; in fact we learnt that it was considered quite _infra dig_
to go on foot anywhere in Turkestan.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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