The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian TurkestanKemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
History
The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian Turkestan
Kemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Korea -- Description and travel; Manchuria (China) -- Description and travel
The town boasts two good new hotels; a fine public library, especially
rich in works on Central Asia; an observatory; a museum; two large
public schools; an experimental agricultural station and school; a
seminary; a bank, and various public buildings. There is also a park
containing a bicycle track, where they have races; at the entrance we
saw a large monument commemorating the conquests of the Russians in
different parts of Turkestan. They first invaded it in 1863, and took
this city and also Chemkend; in 1866 they took Khojend and Kokand, and
completely destroyed the power of the latter, this proving the beginning
of Turkestan as a Russian province. In the next two years they pushed
their conquests further westward, and defeated the troops of the Emir of
Bokhara and entered Samarkand. In 1873 Khiva was invaded and navigation
rights obtained over the whole of the Oxus River, now known as the Amu
Daria. Russia decided to leave Bokhara under the rule of the Emir, merely
maintaining a protectorate, but the remainder of Turkestan has since that
time been under Russian rule.
We called at the office of the Wagons Lits Company for information
about our journey to Samarkand, and the manager obligingly got a young
Russian, attached to the newspaper staff, to act as our guide for the
afternoon. He spoke English with a strong American accent, and was
extremely garrulous, having attained a thoroughly journalistic style of
conversation. We took a carriage and drove to the old city, of which the
walls, alas, have completely disappeared. It is buried in the midst of
trees and gardens, for there is a fine system of irrigation there. All
through both the Russian and also the native town we saw streams flowing;
the watering is done by a simple process; a man goes down each side of
the road simultaneously, armed with a long wooden scoop, with which he
sweeps the water out of the little canals as far as the centre, even on
a wide road. This takes place at intervals during the day. Here and there
in the native city is a good pond surrounded by trees. The houses are low
and made of sun-dried bricks, looking more ruinous than the other cities
we visited. Tashkent, it seems, is subject to earthquakes, which probably
accounts for its dishevelled appearance, and it is difficult to believe
that the population inhabiting it is both large and growing. According to
the latest census the inhabitants number over 100,000, so evidently its
decadent look is entirely misleading.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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