The children in their gay clothes form a delicious contrast, and are as bright and merry as birds, full of mischief and fun; we had a good opportunity of watching them while sketching, and they were delightful neighbours for the most part, despite being rather distracting. The first building that arrests the attention at the entrance to the town is the citadel, but it has been transformed into Russian barracks, so that the exterior is the main thing of interest. It boasts in modern times of having been the scene of a stirring episode when the Russians first took possession in 1868. A small garrison having been left there while the main army went in pursuit of the Amir of Bokhara, found itself surrounded by 20,000 men, and for five days succeeded in holding the position until relieved by the timely arrival of a corps from Tashkent. Then a terrible vengeance fell upon the doomed city, which was given over for three days to pillage as in the days of Tamerlane. What grim irony to call Samarkand _la bien gardée_, when through all the centuries it has been desolated, beginning from the conquest of Alexander the Great, more than twenty-two centuries ago, down to the present time. Under the Arab Sámánids in the eighth century it became a great centre of learning, and was renowned throughout the world; then Genghiz Khan fell upon it in 1219, and although it is said to have been defended by 110,000 men, he took the city and let loose his ferocious hordes upon it. When they left the city the population had been reduced to one-fourth of the size it had been, but even then it was said to boast 25,000 families. In the days of Tamerlane it rose again to 150,000, and at the present day the native city covers a great area, being enclosed within a low wall of nine miles in extent.