The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian TurkestanKemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
History
The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian Turkestan
Kemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Korea -- Description and travel; Manchuria (China) -- Description and travel
The next group of ancient buildings which meets the eye is the great
market square, the Righistan, three sides of which are surrounded by
madressahs or colleges, the fourth side being bounded by a row of small
native shops. The four sides are quite separate from one another, a
street passing along the north side of the square in front of the
Tilla-Kari Madressah. It would be impossible to describe the magnificent
effect of these buildings due to their great height, simplicity of
design, brilliancy of colour, and the noble space which they enclose.
The square is more than two centuries later in date than the days of
Tamerlane, but it is the harmonious continuation and completion of his
work. The eastern building is the oldest of the madressahs, called after
its builder, Uleg Beg (A.D. 1420 approximately); he was the grandson
of Timur, a great patron of art and science. He made a table of the
fixed stars, agreeing pretty closely with that made by the celebrated
Danish astronomer, Tycho-Brahé, more than a century later. It is the
smallest of the three madressahs, containing accommodation for only
fifty students, but attached to it was the world-renowned observatory
and school of mathematics. Uleg Beg used the quadrant, the radius of
which, says d’Herbelot, equalled the height of St. Sophia. A description
of one madressah will suffice for the three, as they are all built on
the same plan. The front of the quadrilateral building is about 100 to
150 feet in height, with an immense porch nearly extending to the top
of it; the porch is mostly filled in with beautiful tiles, but contains
a small window in the upper part and a wide door below, with smaller
ones on either side. The broad spaces of masonry flanking the porch are
subdivided into three sections, which are all differently and richly
decorated with tiles, in which blue is the predominating colour. The
two small doorways lead into a paved court surrounded by buildings,
in the centre of each of which is a pointed porch called “pichtack,”
similar to that of the façade, but on a much smaller scale, and generally
of finer workmanship. This is surrounded by arcades, the central one
being a hall for prayer, decorated with suitable inscriptions cut in
hard stone or marble slabs in the walls. The courtyard corresponds to
our cloister of the West, and trees cast a pleasant shade in it where
the studious Mohammedans spend so many weary hours, for the university
training lasts from twenty to twenty-seven years. One of the students
showed us his tiny cell with its store of books—a very limited one.
As we entered another student or Mullah stood praying just within the
porch at the top of his voice, and in shrill and dolorous accents:
the Sunnites adopt this tone in order that there may be no suspicion
of tune or melody. The studies are by no means confined to religion,
however, for they embrace all the faculties, and men are here trained to
fill every office of Church and State.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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