The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian TurkestanKemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
History
The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian Turkestan
Kemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Korea -- Description and travel; Manchuria (China) -- Description and travel
It was on our second visit that we were shown the much more valuable
collection of bronzes and porcelain, the door to which could only
be unlocked after prolonged effort, and in the presence of special
officials. Other visitors besides ourselves were anxious to enter, but
a special permit was required, and they were sent away disappointed.
The porcelain was piled in endless heaps in glass cases, which
probably remained unopened for decades, and there was no attempt at
classification. The beauty of colour and design could be but imperfectly
realised, as sets of bowls or dishes were all piled in one another, so
as to occupy the least possible space, and there was but little variety
in proportion to the large quantity of china displayed. A visit to the
British Museum gives a much better conception of this form of Chinese
art. It was much the same case with the bronzes, and it was even more
difficult to see them than the china. There was one fine example of the
“gold splash,” which is so well represented at the South Kensington
Museum in Mr. Behren’s collection. To my great disappointment there
was little variety of design. It is to be hoped that the Chinese may
be sufficiently imbued by the modern spirit to make them copy (to a
certain extent) the arrangement of our museums, so that the art treasures
contained in the palace may be more accessible to visitors. Outside the
palace were the curious fences known as “deer’s horns,” which are also to
be seen at the great tombs and outside official buildings. They are long
pieces of wood set at right angles to one another as closely as possible,
and running through a long heavy beam. The lower ends of the cross pieces
are heavy, and are set into the ground, the upper ones taper to a point:
altogether the “deer’s horns” form a strong, though simple, barrier. They
are usually painted red.
After seeing the palace we visited the fine church, built by the native
Christians after the destruction of the former one by the Boxers in
1800. It seats several hundred people, and has a native pastor. It
may interest readers to know that among the State papers found during
the Russian occupation of Moukden was a description of the destruction
of the property of the Christians. This was written in Manchu, which
is quite different from Chinese writing, and bound in imperial yellow
silk, enclosed in a yellow silk box and sent to Peking. There it was
countersigned by the late Emperor and late Dowager Empress, and sent back
to Moukden to be placed in the State archives. Could any more conclusive
proof be found that the Boxer outrages were sanctioned by the Court at
Peking? We were privileged to see this interesting historical document.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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