The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian TurkestanKemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
History
The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian Turkestan
Kemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Korea -- Description and travel; Manchuria (China) -- Description and travel
Taking heart of grace by the kind reception of my former book on China,
I determined to visit Manchuria and Korea, and to try and describe
them by pen and brush as I had described the Face of China. My former
fellow-traveller was willing and eager to repeat our wanderings, so
we set out on February 1st of this year, 1910, via the Trans-Siberian
Railway. Much has been written by various travellers about this part of
the journey, but the questions that I wanted answered are mostly ignored
by them. Baedeker is wholly inadequate. I begin therefore my tale from
the point where we crossed the border into Manchuria, so as to give more
continuity to the narrative and avoid repetition. On our return journey
across Siberia I give details which may possibly be of service to those
who intend travelling on that line, and also the general information
about the condition of the country at the present time, which I have
gathered from reliable sources since my return.
When we started for our four months’ tour we had no intention of
extending it to Turkestan, but finding that a railway line connected it
with the one on which we were travelling, and that it could be reached in
three days from Samara on the Trans-Siberian line, we decided to include
it in our programme and so vary the journey home. It proved to be of
extraordinary artistic interest, not to mention its historical importance
both as the centre of Moslem learning and of Russian experiments in
civilizing Central Asia. Russia looks with a jealous eye upon the
traveller, and a special permit has to be obtained in order to travel
through Turkestan, even on the railway line. Not only is it necessary
to apply for this through the British Embassy at St. Petersburg, but
several weeks elapse before a notification can be received that the
Russian Government graciously permits the traveller to cross Turkestan.
We were informed also that when all these formalities had been duly
observed, the traveller was still liable to be stopped by the police on
the ground that they (the police) had not received official notice of the
traveller’s coming, and in that case he would be ordered to return by the
way he came. Despite this discouraging information we determined to try
our luck, and in due course received a “note verbale” from the Ministry
of Foreign Affairs at St. Petersburg, addressed to the British Embassy,
permitting us to visit Tashkent, Samarkand, and Bokhara. In point of
fact our difficulty proved to be not that of getting _in_, but that of
getting _out_ of Russian territory, as will be seen later on.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account