The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian Turkestan — John Shaqi
The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian TurkestanKemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
History
The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian Turkestan
Kemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Korea -- Description and travel; Manchuria (China) -- Description and travel
The wild flowers were beginning to come out, purple anemones, white
violets, &c., but nothing like the wealth of the woods we had just left
in Korea. The monasteries were pitched aloft in inaccessible-looking
spots, terrace above terrace. When we reached the gorge where we were to
stay, it looked well-nigh impossible for the carts to make the ascent. At
the entrance gate they halted, and a group of men came forward to help
push them up over the rocks. Each cart had two mules, and they pulled
with right goodwill, so that in a few minutes of pushing, pulling, and
shouting, the carts had been rushed up through the second gateway on
to the platform where they were to be housed. Much disappointment was
shown by the monks at the non-appearance of our friend the doctor, who
was evidently a favourite here as everywhere, but heavy work at the
hospital and other reasons had prevented his accompanying us. Up and up
the rock-cut steps we climbed to the guest-room, which had been bespoken
for our use, and a more attractive spot it would have been impossible
to find. Far below the mountain torrent murmured, and wild pigeons and
kites added their notes to the music of the brook. I sat down to sketch
shortly after our arrival, and the scene was precisely the one to charm
a Chinese artist of the old school. I found myself insensibly imitating
the reproductions I possess of work done by noted artists of three
hundred years ago. A tiny bright green bird perched on a tree close by,
and soon the gong began to sound for evening worship. A few monks made
their way up the flights of steps to where a faint glimmer of light
showed from within the main temple, bowing and kneeling at intervals on
the way. Evening settled down and we repaired to our cell, thinking of
the lovely rose-coloured dawn when I would paint the scene. Alas! next
morning showed a leaden sky, and by the time we had finished breakfast
large snowflakes came floating down. The scene melted away before our
eyes, and soon the ground was white with snow, and the weather showed no
signs of clearing. The disappointment was a bitter one; our one day, our
only opportunity gone, and the long cold hours of the day without any
occupation to fill them. Fidus Achates brought us a charcoal brazier,
but it was poor comfort. After lunch, however, the clouds broke and the
snow ceased falling, so we went out to prospect. We were guided by our
servant Jim down the gorge and up another, where we came to a long flight
of steps leading up to a small Taoist temple, with beautiful wooden
carvings round the shrines, and a thoroughly picturesque little courtyard
with various plants in it, and brass ornaments brilliantly polished.
Altogether it formed a charming picture, and had all the appearance of
being carefully tended. A curious sundial and various ornamental tablets
were arranged in the court, and there were also the conventional pair of
trees on either side of the steps leading to the principal shrine. The
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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