As we zig-zagged up the mountain the air grew colder and denser, for our carriage was full, and every one smoked but ourselves. We managed to light the stove with the remains of the luncheon boxes, and fortunately there was a scuttle of coal with which to replenish it. The main drawback was the difficulty of escaping being burnt owing to the narrow space, and one’s dress paid with a couple of holes. At 7.40 P.M. the train stopped for the night, and we betook ourselves to a Japanese inn tinctured with Europeanism. It consisted of a squat tower with ten sides, of which the centre, also ten-sided, formed the parlour. Each of these inner walls formed a door, seven of which opened into bedrooms. As they were all alike, no one seemed able to remember which was his room, so we had to barricade our door if we wanted to exclude visitors. The other guests were led off in turns to have a bath, and returned in due course arrayed in hotel dressing-gowns and slippers to sit before the stove and smoke. Next morning we started again at 8 o’clock, and spent a similar day to the previous one, climbing through mountain gorges and crossing and recrossing the same river. The hill-sides boasted more vegetation, and the brown autumn leaves still clung to the trees, of which a number are wild mulberry, which grows freely in these mountains. We reached Antung soon after 6 o’clock, and went to a Japanese inn, recommended by the proprietor of the one where we had spent the previous night: he telegraphed to them to meet us at the station. Antung is a considerable place, and the Japanese town is situated quite apart from the Chinese; the railway and ferry were near the hotel, and we started betimes for the latter, which runs in connection with the train at Wiju on the south bank of the Yalu River. We took our tickets, but they possessed literally no change at the ticket-office. I was able to pay almost the correct sum, only three farthings in excess of the full price, and the man offered to give me the change later on. It did not seem worth while struggling through a dirty crowd for this magnificent sum afterwards, so I did not return, but an hour later, when we were seated in the train at Wiju, an official solemnly presented the three farthings to me!