Now that I have given you a sketch of our accommodation, I will go on with our passage from the inner harbour. While passing through it, volleys of fire-crackers were let off, and gongs were beaten by way of 'chin-chining Joss' for a safe and pleasant passage. A little later dinner was served, and a No. 1 dinner it was. Crab soup to begin with, an ample dessert, Hodgson's pale ale, superb La Rose and sherry, with custard-apples, plantains, and other fruits. We turned in at eleven, but slept little, as the wind was dead ahead after entering the 'Broadway,' so I was up early and on deck. The fleet was hard at it, tack and tack to windward. We found ourselves in the middle of it, those to windward about three miles off, and those to leeward about the same distance. At eight o'clock we passed the Mo-tow, or 'Knife-grinding,' Fort, which was once a stronghold of the celebrated pirate Apotsae, who pillaged all the country round about. Near to it were lying two of His Celestial Majesty's men-of-war junks. The day's supply of fresh milk was brought on board, and at eight breakfast, which was attended with difficulty, from the heeling over of the boat. We entered the 'Heang-Shan'[49] River, but at 11.30 were all obliged to anchor within five miles of the city, as it had begun to blow a violent gale, the rain coming down in torrents. On the morning of the 5th, cloudy and rainy, but the wind abating somewhat and the tide being favourable, we hove up, and at 8.30 passed Heang-Shan. We expected to anchor to receive the customary visit of the mandarin, but he may not have felt inclined to turn out in such weather. It happened that the Compradore, who had gone up in a fast boat the evening before, procured from him his seal to the Company's 'chop,' which allowed us to go on without anchoring; but through all this fuss and his absence we lost the milk for our after-dinner tea! On the morning of the 6th the Compradore was again alongside, and made it 'all right' with _us_ by threatening to come again with mutton for dinner; and, considering what we have 'undergone' since leaving Macao, it will be very acceptable.