The scenery on both sides of the river is celebrated for its beauty, and we enjoyed it much. The banks are lined with orange and lemon trees, peaches and lychee. On the summit of a high hill stands a seven-story pagoda. If you ask a Chinaman its object or use, he replies that it is 'Joss pigeon,' and you are as wise as you were before. In reality, the Chinese believe that these buildings bring prosperity on the region and ward off evil influences. The river is crowded with boats crossing from one bank to the other, filled with all sorts of country produce or passengers, who stare their very eyes out in looking at us. Further on we pass another fort, with a curious name, the 'Old Duck,' and on the riverside opposite is another called 'Greatly Excellent.' In the afternoon a fine strong breeze sprang up, and we made rapid progress, passing still another fortification, called the 'Mouth of the Great Gate.' We were compelled to dine on a superb roasted capon, with _et ceteras_ as usual. We just touched at 'Che-nae' for the official formality, and soon after the Western Fort was passed, when we saw the innumerable lights and lanterns of the provincial city; and at 8 P.M. glad enough we were to find ourselves once more in 'Old Canton.' The Dutch East India Company followed the same programme to and from Macao. The members of this Company were never so numerous as that of the English. There were usually two gentlemen to manage all affairs, with three or four 'writers.' Under various pretexts, other foreign merchants managed to remain at Canton the year out. One was that their import cargo not having been sold, consequently the tea and other merchandise which they had shipped was unpaid for. This, if not considered reasonable, at all events had the effect of causing the authorities to overlook their presence, and gradually that article of the 'old regulations' became a dead letter.