It stood very near the corner of the Rue Pirouette and provided quite a
feast for the eyes. Its aspect was bright and smiling, touches of
brilliant colour showing conspicuously amidst all the snowy marble. The
sign board, on which the name of QUENU-GRADELLE glittered in fat gilt
letters encircled by leaves and branches painted on a soft-hued
background, was protected by a sheet of glass. On two panels, one on
each side of the shop-front, and both, like the board above, covered
with glass, were paintings representing various chubby little cupids
playing amidst boars’ heads, pork chops and strings of sausages; and
these latter still-life subjects, embellished with scrolls and bows,
had been painted in such soft tones that the uncooked pork which they
represented had the pinkiness of raspberry jam. Within this pleasing
framework arose the window display, arranged upon a bed of fine
blue-paper shavings. Here and there fern-leaves, tastefully disposed,
changed the plates which they encircled into bouquets fringed with
foliage. There was a wealth of rich, luscious, melting things. Down
below, quite close to the window, jars of preserved sausage-meat were
interspersed with pots of mustard. Above these were some small, plump,
boned hams. Golden with their dressings of toasted bread-crumbs, and
adorned at the knuckles with green rosettes. Next came the larger
dishes, some containing preserved Strasburg tongues, enclosed in
bladders coloured a bright red and varnished, so that they looked quite
sanguineous beside the pale sausages and trotters; then there were
black-puddings coiled like harmless snakes, healthy looking
chitterlings piled up two by two; Lyons sausages in little silver copes
that made them look like choristers; hot pies, with little banner-like
tickets stuck in them; big hams, and great glazed joints of veal and
pork, whose jelly was as limpid as sugar-candy. In the rear were other
dishes and earthen pans in which meat, minced and sliced, slumbered
beneath lakes of melted fat. And betwixt the various plates and dishes,
jars and bottle of sauce, cullis, stock and preserved truffles, pans of
_foie gras_ and boxes of sardines and tunny-fish were strewn over the
bed of paper shavings. A box of creamy cheeses, and one of edible
snails, the apertures of whose shells were dressed with butter and
parsley, had been placed carelessly at either corner. Finally, from a
bar overhead strings of sausages and saveloys of various sizes hung
down symmetrically like cords and tassels; while in the rear fragments
of intestinal membranes showed like lacework, like some _guipure_ of
white flesh. And on the highest tier in this sanctuary of gluttony,
amidst the membranes and between two bouquets of purple gladioli, the
window stand was crowned by a small square aquarium, ornamented with
rock-work, and containing a couple of gold-fish, which were continually
swimming round it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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