The Fijians: A Study of the Decay of CustomThomson, Basil
History
The Fijians: A Study of the Decay of Custom
Thomson, Basil
Ethnology -- Fiji; Fijians
Every step of the soul's journey was taken on a road perfectly familiar
to the people, and constantly frequented by daylight. But after
nightfall none were found so foolhardy as to set foot upon this domain
of the Immortals, while the precincts of Ndengei's cave and
Naithombothombo (the Jumping-off place) were tabu both by day and
night. In 1891 a surveyor, employed in sketching the boundaries of the
lands claimed by the Namata tribe, was taken by his native guides along
a high ridge, the watershed between the Rewa river and the eastern coast
of the main island. As they cut their way through the undergrowth that
clothed the hilltop, he noticed that the path was nearly level, and
seldom more than two feet wide, and that the ridge joined hilltop to
hilltop in an almost horizontal line. Reflecting that Nature never works
in straight lines with so soft a material as earth, and that natural
banks of earth are always washed into deep depressions between the
hills, and are never razor-edged as this was, he had a patch of the
undergrowth cleared away, and satisfied himself that the embankments
were artificial. Following the line of the ridge, the saddles had been
bridged with banks thirty to forty feet high in the deepest parts, and
tapering to a width of two feet at the top. The level path thus made
extends, so the guides said, clear to Nakauvandra mountain, fifty miles
away. For a people destitute of implements this was a remarkable work.
Every pound of earth must have been carried up laboriously in cocoanut
leaf baskets and paid for in feasts. Even when the valley was densely
populated the drain on the resources of the people must have been
enormous, for thousands of pigs must have been slaughtered and millions
of yams planted, cultivated, and consumed in the entertainment of the
workers. With the present sparse population the work would have been
impossible. It was thought at first that this was a fortification on a
gigantic scale, for Fijians never undertake any great combined work,
except for defence, to preserve their bare existence. It could not be a
road, because the Fijian of old preferred to go straight over obstacles,
like the soldier ants that climb trees rather than go round them. The
old men at Mbau, whom I questioned, knew no tradition about it, except
that it was called the "Path of the Shades," and that it was an
extension of one of the spurs of the Kauvandra mountain range. Of one
thing they were certain--that it was not built for defence. Then I asked
for guides to take me over it, and three grey-headed elders of the
Namata tribe were told off to accompany me. We started in the driving
rain. My guides were reticent at first, but when we had climbed to the
higher ridge, and were near the "Water-of-Solace," the spirit of the
place seemed to possess them, and at every turn of the path they stopped
to describe the peril that there beset the poor Shade. The eldest of the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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