The Fijians: A Study of the Decay of CustomThomson, Basil
History
The Fijians: A Study of the Decay of Custom
Thomson, Basil
Ethnology -- Fiji; Fijians
The hen turtle is taken when she crawls on shore to lay her eggs, and
the nest itself is robbed when eyes are sharp enough to detect the place
where she has so cunningly smoothed the sand over it. But in Kandavu the
turtle is actually taken in the sea without nets, and this is sport
indeed. Two men go out in a light canoe; the one paddles in the stern
while the other lies upon his stomach with his head projecting over the
bow, and with a heap of pebbles under him. With scarce a ripple from the
paddle the canoe is gently propelled to and fro over the bottom where
grows the green sea-grass which is the turtle's favourite pasture. The
watcher in the bow lifts his hand; the motion is checked; he takes a
pebble from the heap beneath him, and drops it gently into the water.
Down it goes pat upon the shell of the feeding turtle. Unsuspecting
danger, the beast crawls lazily out of range of such accidents and
begins to feed again. Steered by hand-signals from the watcher the canoe
swings her head over him again, and another stone taps rudely at his
shell. It may need a third or even a fourth to convince him that this
rain of solid bodies from the upper world is more than accidental, but
this unwonted exercise at meal times has bereft him of breath. Air he
must have, and he makes slantwise for the surface. Then the sport
begins; the watcher snatches off his _sulu_ and plunges down into the
depths to meet him. The art lies in seizing him by the edge of the
fore-flipper, and in turning him over before he reaches the surface. It
is a slippery handhold, but the hand that grasps the limb higher up will
be nipped between the flipper and the sharp edge of the shell, and to
seize a turtle by the hind-flipper is to be the tin can tied to the
puppy's tail. Having seized your flipper by its edge, you must turn the
beast over on his back (if he will let you) and propel him to the
surface, where your companion will help you to hoist him on board. The
turtle spends his few remaining days lying on his back, and throughout
Western Fiji he dies the horrible death which is prescribed by custom:
an incision is made at the junction of the hind limb with the under
shell, and through this the entrails are drawn out. After their removal,
and even during the process of dismemberment, he continues to live. I
have often reasoned with the natives against this cruelty, and they have
listened to me with amused surprise; "It was the way of our fathers,"
they said; "if we cut off his head he would not die any sooner, and the
meat would be spoiled." When a great feast is in preparation
turtle-fishing begins several weeks in advance, and the beasts are kept
alive in a stone or wickerwork enclosure in shallow water, which is
called a _mbi_. They can thus be kept alive for several months. There
was a tragic note in the fate of one little turtle captured when he was
no bigger than a soup plate, and presented to an European as a pet. The
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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