The Flowing Bowl: A Treatise on Drinks of All Kinds and of All Periods, Interspersed with Sundry Anecdotes and ReminiscencesSpencer, Edward
History
The Flowing Bowl: A Treatise on Drinks of All Kinds and of All Periods, Interspersed with Sundry Anecdotes and Reminiscences
Spencer, Edward
Alcoholic beverages; Liquors; Wine and wine making
After an experience of the modern roadside inn, or of the “reserved
lounges” of the alcohol-palaces of to-day, what can be more delightful
reading than the description of the interior of the “Maypole,” in
_Barnaby Rudge_?
“The very snuggest, cosiest, and completest bar that ever the wit of
man devised. Such amazing bottles in old oaken pigeon-holes; such
gleaming tankards hanging from pegs at about the same inclination as
thirsty men would hold them to their lips; such sturdy little Dutch
kegs ranged in rows on shelves; so many lemons hanging in separate
nets, suggestive, with goodly loaves of sugar stowed away hard by, of
punch, idealized beyond all mortal knowledge, etc. etc.”
Hardly an ideal landlord of the past, though, was old John Willet.
A far better stamp of host was Gabriel Varden, the locksmith, who
took deep draughts of sparkling home-brewed ale, from a goodly jug of
well-browned clay, for breakfast, and who was one of the “Maypole’s”
best customers. Mr. Chester—whose interview with his son will remind
the student of Monsieur le Marquis’s interview with his nephew, in
_A Tale of Two Cities_—was a judge of wine, though not given to
over-indulgence in the bowl, like his bastard, Maypole Hugh; and Lord
George {218} Gordon’s favourite brew appears to have been hot mulled
wine. As for the rest of the rioters, they drank, after the manner of
rioters, anything they could get.
The first mention of wine in _A Tale of Two Cities_ is the fall and
breakage, _pro bono publico_, of a large cask of inferior claret in
the district of St. Antoine—emblematic of the blood to be spilt in
Paris later on—which called forth the delightful, philosophic remark
of Defarge, the master of the wine-shop to which the cask had been
consigned: “It is not my affair. The people from the market did it.
Let them bring another.” But the chief imbibers in the book are Sydney
Carton and Serjeant Stryver, the pushing and successful advocate for
whom the other “devilled.” Stryver, we gather from Edmund Yates’s
_Reminiscences_, was modelled by Dickens, from Mr. Edwin James,
Q.C., who at one time “stood high in popular favour,” and who “liked
talking.” There is plenty of subsequent moderate drinking—in Defarge’s
wine-shop principally—but with the exception of these two advocates,
Stryver and Carton—“what the two drank together, between Hilary Term
and Michaelmas might have floated a king’s ship”—nobody appears to
swallow an undue amount of alcohol, in this the most powerful, and the
saddest, of all Dickens’s books.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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