One may take one's choice of all characters in this romantic state
of uncertainty as to one's real pretensions, and become indefinitely
respectable and negatively right-worshipful. We baffle prejudice
and disappoint conjecture; and from being so to others, begin to be
objects of curiosity and wonder even to ourselves. We are no more those
hackneyed commonplaces that we appear in the world; an inn restores
us to the level of nature, and quits scores with society! I have
certainly spent some enviable hours at inns--sometimes when I have been
left entirely to myself, and have tried to solve some metaphysical
problem, as once at Witham Common, where I found out the proof that
likeness is not a case of the association of ideas--at other times,
when there have been pictures in the room, as at St Neot's (I think it
was), where I first met with Gribelins' engravings of the Cartoons,
into which I entered at once, and at a little inn on the borders of
Wales, where there happened to be hanging some of Westall's drawings,
which I compared triumphantly (for a theory that I had, not for the
admired artist) with the figure of a girl who had ferried me over the
Severn standing up in a boat between me and the twilight. At other
times I might mention luxuriating in books, with a peculiar interest
in this way, as I remember sitting up half the night to read _Paul and
Virginia_, which I picked up at an inn at Bridgewater, after being
drenched in the rain all day; and at the same place I got through two
volumes of Madame D'Arblay's _Camilla_.
It was on the 10th of April 1798, that I sat down to a volume of the
_New HeloÔse_, at the inn at Llangollen, over a bottle of sherry and a
cold chicken. The letter I chose was that in which St Preux describes
his feelings as he first caught a glimpse from the heights of the Jura
of the Pays de Vaud, which I had brought with me as a _bon bouche_ to
crown the evening with. It was my birthday, and I had for the first
time come from a place in the neighbourhood to visit this delightful
spot. The road to Llangollen turns off between Chirk and Wrexham; and
on passing a certain point you come all at once upon the valley, which
opens like an amphitheatre, broad, barren hills rising in majestic
state on either side, with "green upland swells that echo to the bleat
of flocks" below, and the river Dee babbling over its stony bed in
the midst of them. The valley at this time "glittered green with sunny
showers," and a budding ash-tree dipped its tender branches in the
chiding stream.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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