Part of Brown's view in choosing that unusual tract which leads through
the eastern walls of Cumberland into Scotland, had been a desire to
view the remains of the celebrated Roman Wall, which are more visible
in that direction than in any other part of its extent. His education
had been imperfect and desultory; but neither the busy scenes in which
he had been engaged, nor the pleasures of youth, nor the precarious
state of his own circumstances, had diverted him from the task of
mental improvement.--"And this then is the Roman Wall," he said,
scrambling up to a height which commanded the course of that celebrated
work of antiquity: "What a people! whose labours, even at this
extremity of their empire, comprehended such space, and were executed
upon a scale of such grandeur! In future ages, when the science of
war shall have changed, how few traces will exist of the labours of
Vauban and Coehorn, while this wonderful people's remains will even
then continue to interest and astonish posterity! Their fortifications,
their aqueducts, their theatres, their fountains, all their public
works, bear the grave, solid, and majestic character of their language;
while our modern labours, like our modern tongues, seem but constructed
out of their fragments." Having thus moralised, he remembered that he
was hungry, and pursued his walk to a small public-house at which he
proposed to get some refreshment.
The alehouse, for it was no better, was situated in the bottom of a
little dell, through which trilled a small rivulet. It was shaded by
a large ash-tree, against which the clay-built shed, that served the
purpose of a stable, was erected, and upon which it seemed partly to
recline. In this shed stood a saddled horse, employed in eating his
corn. The cottages in this part of Cumberland partake of the rudeness
which characterises those of Scotland. The outside of the house
promised little for the interior, notwithstanding the vaunt of a sign,
where a tankard of ale voluntarily decanted itself into a tumbler,
and a hieroglyphical scrawl below attempted to express a promise of
"good entertainment for man and horse." Brown was no fastidious
traveller--he stooped and entered the cabaret.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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