generally clusters round a flogging, or some solemn words from the
spiritual teacher instilling the seed of a guiding principle of life.
I remember a sermon or two rather ruefully; and I confess to memories
of a flogging so unjust that I am even now stung by the thought of it.
But what comes most spontaneously to my mind is the memory of certain
strolls, "out of bounds," when I could forget the Latin grammar, and
enjoy such a sense of the beauties of nature as is embodied for a child
in a pond haunted by water-rats, or a field made romantic by threats
of "mantraps and spring-guns." Then, after a crude fashion, one was
becoming more or less of a reflecting and individual being, not a mere
automaton set in movement by pedagogic machinery.
The day on which I was fully initiated into the mysteries is marked
by a white stone. It was when I put on a knapsack and started from
Heidelberg for a march through the Odenwald. Then I first knew the
delightful sensation of independence and detachment enjoyed during
a walking tour. Free from all bothers of railway time-tables and
extraneous machinery, you trust to your own legs, stop when you please,
diverge into any track that takes your fancy, and drop in upon some
quaint variety of human life at every inn where you put up for the
night. You share for the time the mood in which Borrow settled down
in the dingle after escaping from his bondage in the publishers'
London slums. You have no dignity to support, and the dress-coat of
conventional life has dropped into oblivion, like the bundle from
Christian's shoulders. You are in the world of Lavengro, and would
be prepared to take tea with Miss Isopel Berners or with the Welsh
preacher who thought that he had committed the unpardonable sin.
Borrow, of course, took the life more seriously than the literary
gentleman who is only escaping on ticket-of-leave from the prison-house
of respectability, and is quite unequal to a personal conflict with
"blazing Bosville"--the flaming tinman. He is only dipping in the
element where his model was thoroughly at home. I remember, indeed,
one figure in that first walk which I associate with Benedict Moll,
the strange treasure-seeker whom Borrow encountered in his Spanish
rambles. My acquaintance was a mild German innkeeper, who sat beside me
on a bench while I was trying to assimilate certain pancakes, the only
dinner he could provide, still fearful in memory, but just attackable
after a thirty-miles' tramp. He confided to me that, poor as he was,
he had discovered the secret of perpetual motion. He kept his machine
upstairs, where it discharged the humble duty of supplying the place of
a shoe-black; but he was about to go to London to offer it to a British
capitalist. He looked wistfully at me as possibly a capitalist in (very
deep) disguise, and I thought it wise to evade a full explanation. I
have not been worthy to encounter many of such quaint incidents and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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