Perhaps, therefore, it is better to trust the case for walking to
where the external stimulus of splendours and sublimities is not so
overpowering. A philosophic historian divides the world into the
regions where man is stronger than nature and the regions where nature
is stronger than man. The true charm of walking is most unequivocally
shown when it is obviously dependent upon the walker himself. I became
an enthusiast in the Alps, but I have found almost equal pleasure in
walks such as one described by Cowper, where the view from a summit is
bounded, not by Alps or Apennines, but by "a lofty quickset hedge."
Walking gives a charm to the most commonplace British scenery. A love
of walking not only makes any English county tolerable but seems to
make the charm inexhaustible. I know only two or three districts
minutely, but the more familiar I have become with any of them the more
I have wished to return, to invent some new combination of old strolls
or to inspect some hitherto unexplored nook. I love the English Lakes,
and certainly not on account of associations. I cannot "associate."
Much as I respect Wordsworth, I don't care to see the cottage in which
he lived: it only suggests to me that anybody else might have lived
there. There is an intrinsic charm about the Lake Country, and to me at
least a music in the very names of Helvellyn and Skiddaw and Scawfell.
But this may be due to the suggestion that it is a miniature of the
Alps. I appeal, therefore, to the Fen Country, the country of which
Alton Locke's farmer boasted that it had none of your "darned ups and
downs" and "was as flat as his barn-door for forty miles on end." I
used to climb the range of the Gogmagogs, to see the tower of Ely, some
sixteen miles across the dead level, and I boasted that every term I
devised a new route for walking to the cathedral from Cambridge. Many
of these routes led by the little public-house called "Five Miles from
Anywhere": which in my day was the Mecca to which a remarkable club,
called--from the name of the village--the "Upware Republic," made
periodic pilgrimages. What its members specifically did when they got
there beyond consuming beer is unknown to me; but the charm was in the
distance "from anywhere"--a sense of solitude under the great canopy of
the heavens, where, like emblems of infinity,
"The trenched waters run from sky to sky."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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