I have always loved walks in the Fens. In a steady march along one of
the great dykes by the monotonous canal with the exuberant vegetation
dozing in its stagnant waters, we were imbibing the spirit of the
scenery. Our talk might be of senior wranglers or the University
crew, but we felt the curious charm of the great flats. The absence,
perhaps, of definite barriers makes you realise that you are on the
surface of a planet rolling through free and boundless space. One
queer figure comes back to me--a kind of scholar-gipsy of the fens.
Certain peculiarities made it undesirable to trust him with cash, and
his family used to support him by periodically paying his score at
riverside publics. They allowed him to print certain poems, moreover,
which he would impart when one met him on the towpath. In my boyhood,
I remember, I used to fancy that the most delightful of all lives must
be that of a bargee--enjoying a perpetual picnic. This gentleman seemed
to have carried out the idea; and in the intervals of lectures, I
could fancy that he had chosen the better part. His poems, alas! have
long vanished from my memory, and I therefore cannot quote what would
doubtless have given the essence of the local sentiment and invested
such names as Wicken Fen or Swaffham Lode with associations equal to
those of Arnold's Hincksey ridge and Fyfield elm.
Another set of walks may, perhaps, appeal to more general sympathy. The
voice of the sea, we know, is as powerful as the voice of the mountain;
and, to my taste, it is difficult to say whether the Land's End is not
in itself a more impressive station than the top of Mont Blanc. The
solitude of the frozen peaks suggests tombstones and death. The sea is
always alive and at work. The hovering gulls and plunging gannets and
the rollicking porpoises are animating symbols of a gallant struggle
with wind and wave. Even the unassociative mind has a vague sense
of the Armada and Hakluyt's heroes in the background. America and
Australia are just over the way. "Is not this a dull place?" asked some
one of an old woman whose cottage was near to the Lizard lighthouse.
"No," she replied, "it is so 'cosmopolitan.'" That was a simple-minded
way of expressing the charm suggested in Milton's wonderful phrase:
"Where the great Vision of the guarded Mount
Looks towards Namancos and Bayona's hold."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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