She could mentally follow the great ships coming and going, and shake
hands with people at the ends of the earth. The very sight of a
fishing-boat, as painters seem to have found out, is a poem in itself.
But is it not all written in _Westward Ho!_ and in the _Prose Idylls_,
in which Kingsley put his most genuine power? Of all walks that I
have made, I can remember none more delightful than those round the
south-western promontory. I have followed the coast at different times
from the mouth of the Bristol Avon by the Land's End to the Isle of
Wight, and I am only puzzled to decide which bay or cape is the most
delightful. I only know that the most delightful was the more enjoyable
when placed in its proper setting by a long walk. When you have made
an early start, followed the coastguard track on the slopes above
the cliffs, struggled through the gold and purple carpeting of gorse
and heather on the moors, dipped down into quaint little coves with
a primitive fishing village, followed the blinding whiteness of the
sands round a lonely bay, and at last emerged upon a headland where
you can settle into a nook of the rocks, look down upon the glorious
blue of the Atlantic waves breaking into foam on the granite, and see
the distant sea-levels glimmering away till they blend imperceptibly
into cloudland; then you can consume your modest sandwiches, light
your pipe, and feel more virtuous and thoroughly at peace with the
universe than it is easy even to conceive yourself elsewhere. I have
fancied myself on such occasions to be a felicitous blend of poet and
saint--which is an agreeable sensation. What I wish to point out,
however, is that the sensation is confined to the walker. I respect the
cyclist, as I have said; but he is enslaved by his machine: he has to
follow the highroad, and can only come upon what points of view open
to the commonplace tourist. He can see nothing of the retired scenery
which may be close to him, and cannot have his mind brought into due
harmony by the solitude and by the long succession of lovely bits of
scenery which stand so coyly aside from public notice.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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