The Forme of Cury: A Roll of Ancient English Cookery Compiled, about A.D. 1390Pegge, Samuel
History
The Forme of Cury: A Roll of Ancient English Cookery Compiled, about A.D. 1390
Pegge, Samuel
Cooking, English -- Early works to 1800
Saffron. Saffrwm, Brit. whence it appears, that this name ran through
most languages. Mr. Weever informs us, that this excellent drug was
brought hither in the time of Edward III. [98] and it may be true;
but still no such quantity could be produced here in the next reign
as to supply that very large consumption which we see made of it in
our Roll, where it occurs not only as an ingredient in the processes,
but also is used for colouring, for flourishing, or garnishing. It
makes a yellow, No. 68, and was imported from Egypt, or Cilicia, or
other parts of the Levant, where the Turks call it Safran, from the
Arabic Zapheran, whence the English, Italians, French, and Germans,
have apparently borrowed their respective names of it. The Romans
were well acquainted with the drug, but did not use it much in the
kitchen [99]. Pere Calmet says, the Hebrews were acquainted with
anise, ginger, saffron, but no other spices [100].
Pynes. There is some difficulty in enucleating the meaning of this
word, though it occurs so often. It is joined with dates, No. 20. 52.
with honey clarified, 63. with powder-fort, saffron, and salt, 161.
with ground dates, raisins, good powder, and salt, 186. and lastly
they are fried, 38. Now the dish here is _morree_, which in the
Editor's MS. 37, is made of mulberries (and no doubt has its name
from them), and yet there are no mulberries in our dish, but pynes,
and therefore I suspect, that mulberries and pynes are the same, and
indeed this fruit has some resemblance to a pynecone. I conceive
_pynnonade_, the dish, No. 51, to be so named from the pynes therein
employed; and quære whether _pyner_ mentioned along with powder-fort,
saffron, and salt, No. 155, as above in No. 161, should not be read
_pynes_. But, after all, we have cones brought hither from Italy full
of nuts, or kernels, which upon roasting come out of their _capsulæ_,
and are much eaten by the common people, and these perhaps may be the
thing intended.
[Addenda: after _intended_. add, 'See _Ray_, Trav. p. 283. 407. and
_Wright's_ Trav. p. 112.']
Honey was the great and universal sweetner in remote antiquity, and
particularly in this island, where it was the chief constituent of
_mead_ and _metheglin_. It is said, that at this day in _Palestine_
they use honey in the greatest part of their ragouts [101]. Our cooks
had a method of clarifying it, No. 18. 41. which was done by putting
it in a pot with whites of eggs and water, beating them well together;
then setting it over the fire, and boiling it; and when it was ready
to boil over to take it and cool it, No. 59. This I presume is called
_clere honey_, No. 151. And, when honey was so much in use, it
appears from Barnes that _refining_ it was a trade of itself [102].
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