The Forme of Cury: A Roll of Ancient English Cookery Compiled, about A.D. 1390Pegge, Samuel
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The Forme of Cury: A Roll of Ancient English Cookery Compiled, about A.D. 1390
Pegge, Samuel
Cooking, English -- Early works to 1800
Cury, as was remarked above, was ever reckoned a branch of the Art
Medical; and here I add, that the verb _curare_ signifies equally to
dress victuals [64], as to cure a distemper; that every body has
heard of _Doctor Diet, kitchen physick_, &c. while a numerous band of
medical authors have written _de cibis et alimentis_, and have always
classed diet among the _non-naturals_; so they call them, but with
what propriety they best know. Hence Junius '[Greek: Diaita] Græcis
est victus, ac speciatim certa victus ratio, qualis a _Medicis_ ad
tuendam valetudinem præscribitur [65].' Our Cooks expressly tell us,
in their proem, that their work was compiled 'by assent and avysement
of maisters of phisik and of philosophie that dwellid in his [the
King's] court' where _physik_ is used in the sense of medecine,
_physicus_ being applied to persons prosessing the Art of Healing
long before the 14th century [66], as implying _such_ knowledge and
skill in all kinds of natural substances, constituting the _materia
medica_, as was necessiary for them in practice. At the end of the
Editor's MS. is written this rhyme,
Explicit coquina que est optima medicina [67].
There is much relative to eatables in the _Schola Salernitana_; and
we find it ordered, that a physcian should over-see the young
prince's wet-nurse at every meal, to inspect her meat and drink [68].
But after all the avysement of physicians and philosophers, our
processes do not appear by any means to be well calculated for the
benefit of recipients, but rather inimical to them. Many of them are
so highly seasoned, are such strange and heterogeneous compositions,
meer olios and gallimawfreys, that they seem removed as far as
possible from the intention of contributing to health; indeed the
messes are so redundant and complex, that in regard to herbs, in No.
6, no less than ten are used, where we should now be content with two
or three: and so the sallad, No. 76, consists of no less than 14
ingredients. The physicians appear only to have taken care that
nothing directly noxious was suffered to enter the forms. However, in
the Editor's MS. No. 11, there is a prescription for making a _colys_,
I presume a _cullis_, or Invigorating broth; for which see Dodsley's
Old Plays, vol. II. 124. vol. V. 148. vol. VI. 355. and the several
plays mentioned in a note to the first mentioned passage in the Edit.
1780 [69].
I observe further, in regard to this point, that the quantities of
things are seldom specified [70], but are too much left to the taste
and judgement of the cook, if he should happen to be rash and
inconsiderate, or of a bad and undistinguishing taste, was capable of
doing much harm to the guests, to invalids especially.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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