Plassans is a sub-prefecture with about ten thousand inhabitants. Built
on a plateau overlooking the Viorne, and resting on the north side
against the Garrigues hills, one of the last spurs of the Alps, the
town is situated, as it were, in the depths of a cul-de-sac. In 1851 it
communicated with the adjoining country by two roads only, the Nice
road, which runs down to the east, and the Lyons road, which rises to
the west, the one continuing the other on almost parallel lines. Since
that time a railway has been built which passes to the south of the
town, below the hill which descends steeply from the old ramparts to
the river. At the present day, on coming out of the station on the
right bank of the little torrent, one can see, by raising one’s head,
the first houses of Plassans, with their gardens disposed in terrace
fashion. It is, however, only after an uphill walk lasting a full
quarter of an hour that one reaches these houses.
About twenty years ago, owing, no doubt, to deficient means of
communication, there was no town that had more completely retained the
pious and aristocratic character of the old Provencal cities. Plassans
then had, and has even now, a whole district of large mansions built in
the reigns of Louis XIV. and Louis XV., a dozen churches, Jesuit and
Capuchin houses, and a considerable number of convents. Class
distinctions were long perpetuated by the town’s division into various
districts. There were three of them, each forming, as it were, a
separate and complete locality, with its own churches, promenades,
customs, and landscapes.
The district of the nobility, called Saint-Marc, after the name of one
of its parish churches, is a sort of miniature Versailles, with
straight streets overgrown with grass, and large square houses which
conceal extensive gardens. It extends to the south along the edge of
the plateau. Some of the mansions built on the declivity itself have a
double row of terraces whence one can see the whole valley of the
Viorne, a most charming vista much vaunted in that part of the country.
Then on the north-west, the old quarter, formed of the original town,
rears its narrow, tortuous lanes bordered with tottering hovels. The
Town-Hall, the Civil Court, the Market, and the Gendarmerie barracks
are situated here. This, the most populous part of the Plassans, is
inhabited by working-men and shop-keepers, all the wretched, toiling,
common folk. The new town forms a sort of parallelogram to the
north-east; the well-to-do, those who have slowly amassed a fortune,
and those engaged in the liberal professions, here occupy houses set
out in straight lines and coloured a light yellow. This district, which
is embellished by the Sub-Prefecture, an ugly plaster building
decorated with rose-mouldings, numbered scarcely five or six streets in
1851; it is of quite recent formation, and it is only since the
construction of the railway that it has been growing in extent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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