When we women first entered factories and workshops in numbers, we met
unfair conditions on every side. This was particularly true of the
garment trades, which were among the first to employ a great many
women. And when we met this unfair treatment, women dreamed of
legislating virtue into manufacturers. But it can’t be done! And now
it is dawning upon the consciousness of a number of women that the way
to reform clothing manufacturers, textile manufacturers, etc., the way
to cut down insane speeding, overwork, underpay, is to change our
insane conception of clothing—to strive to make it a normal, useful
thing, instead of a hampering, exotic, extravagant thing, which works
one group of women to death at a miserable wage, because a far smaller
group of parasitic women wish to be arrayed like peacocks! Knowing
this to be true, one naturally turns to the fundamental question, and
asks—what _is_ dress—what is fashion? And what, indeed, is dress? Is
it simply a means of protection from cold? A concession to so-called
modesty, a means of displaying wealth, and advertising leisure? Of
attracting the opposite sex? It has been all of these in the past, and
many of the same factors are still apparent in our present-day use of
garments: but a new interpretation of the word has come in with our
new industrial conditions. Dress is an enormous economic factor the
world over, and nowhere more so than in America, where it is an
over-exploited industry, whose markets have been stretched abnormally,
not only by the increasing production of inferior articles, but by a
psychological factor, far more potent even than the law of normal
supply and demand; and that factor is Fashion: a purely hypothetical
need of change in order to meet a purely hypothetical standard, which
is entirely ephemeral and continually altered, artificially.
Year after year, we are made to put the money we begrudge, that we can
ill afford, money we would honestly rather put into other things;
money, often, _that we have not got_, into that particular twist to
skirt or coat or hat which will keep us as ridiculous-looking as our
neighbor, while, at the same time, safe from his ridicule; in other
words, to save ourselves the discomforts of being out of style. And
yet, detesting fashion, as I think the majority of us do in our most
secret hearts, we are often hypnotized by it to such an extent that
free action is prevented.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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