The races had already begun, and the ring of spectators was dense. I
picked out some of the smallest people, looked over their heads, and saw
several young farmers, in parti-colored jackets, and very red in the
face, bouncing up and down on handsome cart-horses. Satiated at last
with this diversion, I turned away and wandered down the hill again; and
after strolling through the streets of Fécamp, and gathering not a
little of the wayside entertainment that a seaport and fishing town
always yields, I repaired to the Abbey church, a monument of some
importance, and almost as great an object of pride in the town as the
Casino. The Abbey of Fécamp was once a very rich and powerful
establishment, but nothing remains of it now save its church and its
_trappistine_. The church, which is for the most part early Gothic, is
very stately and picturesque, and the _trappistine_, which is a
distilled liquor of the _Chartreuse_ family, is much prized by people
who take a little glass after their coffee. By the time I had done with
the Abbey, the townsfolk had slid _en masse_ down the cliff again, the
yellow afternoon had come, and the holiday takers, before the
wine-shops, made long and lively shadows. I hired a sort of two-wheeled
gig, without a board, and drove back to Etretal in the rosy stage of
evening. The gig dandled me up and down in a fashion of which I had been
unconscious since I left off baby-clothes; but the drive, through the
charming Norman country, over roads which lay among the peaceful meadows
like paths amid a park, was altogether delightful. The sunset gave a
deeper mellowness to the standing crops, and in the grassiest corner of
the wayside villages the young men and maidens were dancing like the
figures in vignette illustrations of classic poets.
II.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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