You may say there is nothing in this very commonplace adventure to
sentimentalize about, and that when one plucks sentimentally a brand
from the burning one should pick out a more valuable one. I certainly
call it a picked day, at any rate, when I went to breakfast at St.
Jouin, at the beautiful Ernestine's. Don't be alarmed; if I was just now
too tame, I am not turning wild. The beautiful Ernestine is not my
especial beauty, but every one's, and to contemplate her charms you have
only to order breakfast. They shine forth the more brilliantly in
proportion as your order is liberal, and Ernestine is beautiful
according as your bill is large. In this case she comes and smiles,
really very handsomely, around your table, and you feel some hesitation
in accusing so well-favored a person of extortion. She keeps an inn at
the end of a lane which diverges from the high road between Etretal and
Havre, and it is an indispensable feature of your "station" at the
former place that you choose some fine morning and seek her hospitality.
She has been a celebrity these twenty years, and is no longer a simple
maiden in her flower; but twenty years, if they have diminished her
early bloom, have richly augmented her _museé_. This is a collection of
all the verses and sketches, the autographs, photographs, monographs,
and trinkets presented to the amiable hostess by admiring tourists. It
covers the walls of her sitting-room and fills half a dozen big albums
which you look at while breakfast is being prepared, just as if you were
awaiting dinner in genteel society. Most Frenchmen of the day whom one
has heard of appear to have called at St. Jouin, and to have left their
_homages_. Each of them has turned a compliment with pen or pencil, and
you may see in a glass case on the parlor wall what Alexandre Dumas,
Fils, thought of the landlady's nose, and how several painters measured
her ankles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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