There are Casinos and Casinos, and that of Biarritz is, in the summary
French phrase, "impossible." Except for its view, it is moreover very
unattractive. Perched on the top of a cliff which has just space enough
to hold its immense brick foundations, it has no garden, no promenade,
no shade, no place of out-of-door reunion--the most indispensable
feature of a Casino. It turns its back to the Pyrenees and to Spain, and
looks out prettily enough over a blue ocean to an arm of the low French
coast.
Biarritz, for the rest, scrambles over two or three steep hills,
directly above the sea, in a promiscuous, many-colored, noisy fashion.
It is a watering-place, pure and simple; every house has an expensive
little shop in the basement, and a still more expensive set of rooms to
let above stairs. The houses are blue, and pink, and green; they stick
to the hillsides as they can, and being near Spain, you try to fancy
they look Spanish. You succeed perhaps, even a little, and are rewarded
for your zeal by finding, when you cross the border a few days
afterward, that the houses at San Sebastian look strikingly French.
Biarritz is bright, crowded, irregular, filled with many sounds, and not
without a certain second-rate picturesqueness; but it struck me as
common and cocknified, and my vision travelled back to modest little
Etretal, by its northern sea, as to a more truly delectable
resting-place. The southwestern coast of France has little of the
exquisite charm of the Mediterranean shore. It has of course a southern
expression which in itself is always delightful. You see a brilliant,
yellow sun, with a pink-faced, red-tiled house staring up at it. You
can see here and there a trellis and an orange tree, a peasant woman in
gold necklace, driving a donkey, a lame beggar adorned with ear-rings, a
glimpse of blue sea between white garden walls. But the superabundant
detail of the French Riviera is wanting; the softness, luxuriousness,
enchantment.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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