The most picturesque thing at Biarritz is the Basque population, which
overflows from the adjacent Spanish provinces and swarms in the crooked
streets. It lounges all day in the public places, sprawls upon the
curbstones, clings to the face of the cliffs, and vociferates
continually in a shrill, strange tongue, which has no discoverable
affinity with any other. The Basques look like the hardier and thriftier
Neapolitan lazzaroni; if the superficial resemblance is striking, the
difference is very much in their favor. Although those specimens which I
observed at Biarritz appeared to enjoy an excess of leisure, they had
nothing of a shiftless or beggarly air, and seemed as little disposed to
ask favors as to confer them. The roads leading into Spain were dotted
with them, and here they were coming and going as if on important
business--the business of the abominable Don Carlos himself. They struck
me as a very handsome race. The men are invariably clean shaved; smooth
chins seem a positively religious observance. They wear little round,
maroon-colored caps, like those of sailor-boys, dark stuff shirts, and
curious white shoes, made of strips of rope laid together--an article of
toilet which makes them look like honorary members of base-ball clubs.
They sling their jackets, cavalier fashion, over one shoulder, hold
their heads very high, swing their arms very bravely, step out very
lightly, and when you meet them in the country at eventide, charging
down a hillside in companies of half a dozen, make altogether a most
impressive appearance. With their smooth chins and childish caps, they
may be taken, in the distance, for a lot of very naughty little boys.
They have always a cigarette in their teeth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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