The Englishman is brought up to live his life independently of woman.
He considers his masculine solitariness a sign of strength. To be seen
in the streets with his wife or sisters is to acknowledge that they are
necessary. He feels awkward at being observed publicly in their
company. He shows them no gallantries. He walks a little way apart. His
conversation with them lacks spontaneity. He is not enjoying himself.
He is wanting to be kind and natural, but he dreads lest he should be
thought effeminate. His national conception of manliness demands that he
should be complete in himself. How he ever so forgets his shyness as to
make a woman his wife is one of the unsolved mysteries. Some primeval
instinct, deeper than his national training of reserve, goads him to it.
On recovering from his madness, he is among the first to marvel.
When Christian had climbed to the top of the hill his sack of sins fell
from his back. When an Englishman lands in France, he drops his bundle
of moral scruples in the harbor as he passes down the gang-plank.
For morality is a matter of temperament, and for the time being his
temperament shall be French. Just as a soul newly departed, may look
back with pitying resentment on the chill chaotic body that once
confined it, so he looks back across the English Channel at the
uncharming rectitude of his former self. Being an Englishman has bored
him.
I shall never forget the first wild rapture with which I viewed the tall
white cliffs of Dieppe. It was about three in the afternoon. The sky was
intensely blue, dotted here and there with fleecy islands of cloud. The
sun smote down so hotly on the deck that one’s feet felt swollen. Far
away the gleaming quaintness of the French fishing-town grew up and
stole nearer. It seemed to me that as the wind swept towards us from the
land, I caught the merry frou-frou of ten thousand skirts. Fields and
woodlands which topped the cliffs, hid laughing eyes and emotional white
arms eagerly extended. The staccato chatter of happiness lay before me.
I had escaped from the Eveless Paradise of my own countrymen. I had
slipped out by the back-door of the world. I was free to act as I liked.
I was unobserved. Discretion had lost its most obvious purpose. It
excited me to pretend to myself that I was almost willing to be tempted.
That night I sat by the quays at Rouen, observing the groups of men and
women, always together, passing up and down. I saw how they drew frankly
near to one another. I listened to their scraps of quiet conversation.
The lazy laughter, now the hoarse brass of men’s voices, now the silver
clearness of a woman’s, rose and fell. Below me barges from Paris
creaked against the piles, and the golden Seine swept beneath the
bridges, singing like a gay grisette. As night sank down I was stung to
loneliness, thinking of the absence of Vi and Fiesole.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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