I arrived in Paris on the evening of the following day. Hastily
depositing my baggage at my hotel in the Rue St. Honoré, I set out to
stroll the boulevards. Until three in the morning I wandered from café
to café. I searched the faces of passers-by for signs of the gracious
abandon to happiness of which I had so often heard. My mind teemed with
vivid images of pleasure such as crowd the pages of novels concerning
Paris. Flitting moth-like up and down garish tunnels of light I saw a
painted death. It simpered at me from under shadows of austere churches.
It flirted with me, ogling me with slanted eyes, as I passed beneath the
glare of lamps. I crossed the Pont St. Michel going southward, and found
it in the guise of girls masquerading in male attire. I went across
the bridges again and found it in the Rue de Rivoli, hunting with jaded
feverish expression for men. Wherever I went I encountered the same
fixed mercenary smile, saw the same lavish display of ankles beneath
foamy skirts, and heard the same weary tip-tapping of feet which carried
bodies which should be sold to whoever would purchase.
Where was the joy and adventure of which I had heard? The purpose of
happiness should be life, not death. Several times that night women
turned aside and seated themselves at a table beside me. They roused my
pity; pity was quickly changed to disgust by their hot-foot avarice. All
around me was a painted death.
Overhead the breeze ruffled the tree-tops. I looked up through the
leaves. Stars were going out. I caught between roofs of tired houses a
glimpse of the Eternal looking down. Surely the God who kept the wind
going and replenished the sky with clouds, meant man to be happy in
some better fashion. I went back to my hotel and, gathering together my
baggage, fled.
At Florence the problem of right and wrong presented itself to me in
another aspect. Restraint seemed attended with sadness; license with
ugliness and regret. From above dim shrines disfigured Christs bespoke
the anguish of crucified passions. On the other hand, Filippino’s
tattered _Magdalene_ symbolized the hideous rewards of abandonment. Both
restraint and unrestraint brought sorrow, and I wanted to be supremely
glad. Life should be an affair of singing. I was fascinated by the
thought of woman. With one woman I was in love; in another I was
interested. Both of them I must forget. I would not love Fiesole because
I could not marry Vi. Yet within me was this capacity for passion,
smoldering, leaping, expanding, fighting for an outlet. Surely in a
rightly governed world it should find some fine expression! Through the
by-ways of every city that I entered the lean hound of vice hunted after
nightfall, and behind him stalked the painted death. The cleanness of
the country called me. Like a captive stag, I longed to feel the cool
touch of leaves against my shoulders.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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