In potting lilies, deep potting is to be aimed at. No bulb should be placed at a less depth than four inches below the surface. Large bulbs require to be six, eight, or even twelve inches below the surface of the soil. The reason for this deep potting is that the flower stems send out roots above the bulb, and it is essential that these roots should be below the surface of the soil. The second method of potting bulbs is similar in all respects to the above, except that the pots are not filled up at once. When you have placed the bulb in the pot you add a little soil, but leave the top of the bulb exposed. When growth commences, which will be shown by the appearance of roots and flower stems, you fill up the pots with the prepared soil. Established bulbs and bulbs of the hardier lilies are best potted by the former method, but for bulbs received from abroad, especially those of the more tender species, the second method of potting is to be preferred. Now that you have potted your lilies the question arises, Where shall you keep the pots? For the majority of lilies the best place is either a garden or a balcony. Lilies are too tall growing for window plants and it is totally unnecessary to coddle them up in rooms. There are some lilies which will not come to perfection out of doors in our uncertain climate, except in very favourable seasons. These kinds, many of them among the finest of the tribe, will, however, grow admirably in a conservatory or room. If lilies are grown in rooms, they should be put out of doors every fine day, as they require sun to mature their flowers. The lilies which are not sufficiently hardy for the open air are, _Wallichianum_, _Harrisii_, _Philippinense_, _Neilgherrense_, _Formosanum_, _Nepaulense_, and _Catesbaei_. (With the exception of _Neilgherrense_, all these lilies will grow well out of doors in our southern counties in exceptionally fine seasons.) November is over; our lilies are planted. How are we to treat them before the flowering season arrives? Lilies out in the ground require but very little attention until the shoots appear. In severe winters _Lilium Giganteum_, _Cordifolium_, _Speciosum_, and one or two others, should be protected by bracken or other litter; but lilies stand the frost remarkably well, and rarely suffer from this cause before the flower shoots appear. Lilies grow all through the winter, forming roots. _Lilium Candidum_ puts up an autumn growth of leaves, and occasionally other lilies do the same. When the shoots appear more attention is required. Those kinds which send up shoots in January, February, or March may need slight protection, such as a hand light, from frosts. As the season advances you must guard against two great enemies--slugs and drought. A dry April, not at all an unusual occurrence, will often do great damage in the lily garden.