The Glaciers of the Alps: Being a narrative of excursions and ascents, an account of the origin and phenomena of glaciers and an exposition of the physical principles to which they are relatedTyndall, John
Science
The Glaciers of the Alps: Being a narrative of excursions and ascents, an account of the origin and phenomena of glaciers and an exposition of the physical principles to which they are related
Tyndall, John
Alps -- Description and travel; Glaciers -- Alps
willing to hand over your impressions to the safe keeping of memory.
[Sidenote: THE "COMB" OF THE MOUNTAIN. 1858.]
[Sidenote: ASCENT ALONG A CORNICE. 1858.]
From the vast boss which constitutes the lower portion of Monte Rosa
cliffy edges run upwards to the summit. Were the snow removed from these
we should, I doubt not, see them as toothed or serrated crags,
justifying the term "_kamm_," or "comb," applied to such edges by the
Germans. Our way now lay along such a kamm, the cliffs of which had,
however, caught the snow, and been completely covered by it, forming an
edge like the ridge of a house-roof, which sloped steeply upwards. On
the Lyskamm side of the edge there was no footing, and, if a human body
fell over here, it would probably pass through a vertical space of some
thousands of feet, falling or rolling, before coming to rest. On the
other side the snow-slope was less steep, but excessively
perilous-looking, and intersected by precipices of ice. Dense clouds now
enveloped us, and made our position far uglier than if it had been
fairly illuminated. The valley below us was one vast cauldron, filled
with precipitated vapour, which came seething at times up the sides of
the mountain. Sometimes this fog would partially clear away, and the
light would gleam upwards from the dislocated glaciers. My guide
continually admonished me to make my footing sure, and to fix at each
step my staff firmly in the consolidated snow. At one place, for a short
steep ascent, the slope became hard ice, and our position a very
ticklish one. We hewed our steps as we moved upwards, but were soon glad
to deviate from the ice to a position scarcely less awkward. The wind
had so acted upon the snow as to fold it over the edge of the kamm, thus
causing it to form a kind of cornice, which overhung the precipice on
the Lyskamm side of the mountain. This cornice now bore our weight: its
snow had become somewhat firm, but it was yielding enough to permit the
feet to sink in it a little way, and thus secure us at least against the
danger of slipping. Here also at each step we drove our batons firmly
into the snow, availing ourselves of whatever help they could render.
Once, while thus securing my anchorage, the handle of my hatchet went
right through the cornice on which we stood, and, on withdrawing it, I
could see through the aperture into the cloud-crammed gulf below. We
continued ascending until we reached a rock protruding from the snow,
and here we halted for a few minutes. Lauener looked upwards through the
fog. "According to all description," he observed, "this ought to be the
last kamm of the mountain; but in this obscurity we can see nothing."
Snow began to fall, and we recommenced our journey, quitting the rocks
and climbing again along the edge. Another hour brought us to a crest of
cliffs, at which, to our comfort, the kamm appeared to cease, and other
climbing qualities were demanded of us.
[Sidenote: "DIE HOeCHSTE SPITZE." 1858.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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