The Glaciers of the Alps: Being a narrative of excursions and ascents, an account of the origin and phenomena of glaciers and an exposition of the physical principles to which they are relatedTyndall, John
Science
The Glaciers of the Alps: Being a narrative of excursions and ascents, an account of the origin and phenomena of glaciers and an exposition of the physical principles to which they are related
Tyndall, John
Alps -- Description and travel; Glaciers -- Alps
On the Lyskamm side, as I have said, rescue would be out of the
question, should the climber go over the edge. On the other side of the
edge rescue seemed possible, though the slope, as stated already, was
most dangerously steep. I now asked Lauener what he would have done,
supposing my footing to have failed on the latter slope. He did not
seem to like the question, but said that he should have considered well
for a moment and then have sprung after me; but he exhorted me to drive
all such thoughts away. I laughed at him, and this did more to set his
mind at rest than any formal profession of courage could have done. We
were now among rocks: we climbed cliffs and descended them, and advanced
sometimes with our feet on narrow ledges, holding tightly on to other
ledges by our fingers; sometimes, cautiously balanced, we moved along
edges of rock with precipices on both sides. Once, in getting round a
crag, Lauener shook a book from his pocket; it was arrested by a rock
about sixty or eighty feet below us. He wished to regain it, but I
offered to supply its place, if he thought the descent too dangerous. He
said he would make the trial, and parted from me. I thought it useless
to remain idle. A cleft was before me, through which I must pass; so,
pressing my knees and back against its opposite sides, I gradually
worked myself to the top. I descended the other face of the rock, and
then, through a second ragged fissure, to the summit of another
pinnacle. The highest point of the mountain was now at hand, separated
from me merely by a short saddle, carved by weathering out of the crest
of the mountain. I could hear Lauener clattering after me, through the
rocks behind. I dropped down upon the saddle, crossed it, climbed the
opposite cliff, and "_die hoechste Spitze_" of Monte Rosa was won.
[Sidenote: GLOOM ON THE SUMMIT. 1858.]
Lauener joined me immediately, and we mutually congratulated each other
on the success of the ascent. The residue of the bread and meat was
produced, and a bottle of tea was also appealed to. Mixed with a little
cognac, Lauener declared that he had never tasted anything like it. Snow
fell thickly at intervals, and the obscurity was very great;
occasionally this would lighten and permit the sun to shed a ghastly
dilute light upon us through the gleaming vapour. I put my
boiling-water apparatus in order, and fixed it in a corner behind a
ledge; the shelter was, however, insufficient, so I placed my hat above
the vessel. The boiling point was 184.92 deg. Fahr., the ledge on which the
instrument stood being 5 feet below the highest point of the mountain.
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