Americans -- Spain -- Fiction; Man-woman relationships -- Fiction; Spain -- Social life and customs -- Fiction; Vacations -- Fiction
Robert Lisle did not appear that day and the next was the one set
for the expedition to Celorio where Our Lady of Carmen would be
triumphantly borne forth in procession. The village, which one passed
through from the railway station, was not large, but was charmingly
situated. The space around the church was full of people coming and
going. On one side stretched blue reaches of sea; on the other arose
the Cantabrian mountains. Behind the church stood the monastery around
which a fair garden blossomed within high stone walls.
Coming from the bright sunlight without, the church looked singularly
dark and gloomy as one entered under the gallery for men, so that
the two or three steps leading to the body of the church were only
dimly discerned, but as one became accustomed to the dimness the very
obscurity became a charm, and one could see the age-stained timbers,
the quaintly carved capitols of the columns which supported the
gallery, the grotesque vases in the chancel, which were now filled
with flowers and were in the form of devils. They might well be of
pagan origin, but none could tell how old they might be. The gleaming
candle points at the altar gave the only light, and this was the more
effective because of the dimness beyond, in which knelt upon the stone
floor shadowy figures in black.
Don Juan’s party found a place on one of the few benches near the
entrance, and presently through the low-arched doorway came a
white-robed woman on her knees. She was followed by another, then after
an interval, by two together. Following these came a mother and her
two sons on their bare knees. Others appeared from time to time all
making their way slowly down the stone steps and up the body of the
church to the altar where the white robes were deposited at the feet of
the Virgin. Then mass was said and the Lady of Carmen, preceded by the
dancing village maids, was carried forth to the music of the ancient
_danza prima_. Following her came the _ramas_ borne by the worthiest
young men of this and neighboring villages, then all who wished,
carried tall candles and joined in the procession which passed around
the church, to the noise of rocket bombs frequently sent off from the
tower.
“What are they going to do now?” asked Patty as she watched the
villagers circle around the huge pyramids of loaves, decorated with
flowers.
“The girls will sing the song of the _rama_. It is rather a monotonous
chant, and one gets deadly tired of it when it is kept up as long as
it is liable to be, but it will probably interest you for a while,” Don
Juan told her.
“And what becomes of the _ramas_?”
“The loaves are sold or given to the poor. Sometimes one person buys
all and sells the bread for very little.”
“It is a sort of harvest home, isn’t it?”
“Yes, though here they make a religious ceremony of everything. They
end up with a dance, however, and what begins a _romeria_ ends a
_fiesta_.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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